Jump to content
SAU Community

Installed Yellow Jackets, What Now?

Pr0x1mity

By Pr0x1mity,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pr0x1mity Proficient

Pr0x1mity

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

So my problem started with a dead coil. Replaced with yellow jackets and its a bit better, but still not 100%

Any ideas? Is there anything additional i have to do to get them to work? Idles a bit.. chuggy. It shakes a bit like its misfiring but it dosnt feel like its that bad?

Also the engine light is no longer on, so thats a start..

Please help me, i just busted my balls taking that damn thing apart and im really frustrated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361063-installed-yellow-jackets-what-now/
Share on other sites
TTSNRSMAN Enthusiast

TTSNRSMAN

Posted
Posted (edited)

leads,plugs?faulty lead makes my telstar sound like a wrx,with just 5 cyl firing properly.but i'm by faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar no expert.oh i meant by faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar,no expert.rich.pinch.gif

Edited by GT ARRRGH
TTSNRSMAN Enthusiast

TTSNRSMAN

Posted
Posted (edited)

drawing from my vast array of knowledge....little,car should run fine with stock ecu.but if you do get tuneable ecu you will get the best out of better induction,spark,airflow yada yada.i'm tryin to help ya but i aints got much knowhow just yet.hopefully one of the uber brains on here will help with diagnosis.:thumbsup: sorry maybe not induction(see i said i aint gots the smarts)insert yokel laugh here.

Edited by GT ARRRGH
TTSNRSMAN Enthusiast

TTSNRSMAN

Posted
Posted

Yeah im not sure my self. Im running stock ECU, Is that alright? Its an N/A also.

I might have to get the mechanic to have a look at it.. domokun.gif

a good auto sparky may be of service too.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

leads,plugs?faulty lead makes my telstar sound like a wrx,with just 5 cyl firing properly.but i'm by faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar no expert.oh i meant by faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar,no expert.rich.pinch.gif

Leads in a coil over spark system?

Check your plugs, probably wouldnt hurt to replace them, reset the ECU (Unplug battery and hold brake down for a bit then plug it back in... Should only do this with a stock ECU) Clean AFM, give everything a good check over etc

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

looks like he has an r34. so no ignitor. it's built in to the coilpacks isnt it?

i'd check the wiring harness that plugs into your coil packs. make sure it's all good... as well as check / replace your spark plugs etc.

Edited by Munkyb0y
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

looks like he has an r34. so no ignitor. it's built in to the coilpacks isnt it?

i'd check the wiring harness that plugs into your coil packs. make sure it's all good... as well as check / replace your spark plugs etc.

+1 if the looms/wiring are hard and stiff, there's a likely problem. Should be supple and flexible - opposite to a Fap.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Checked the coils, tightened them up and checked loom.. It looks alright..

Dunno what it could be! :(

As a few ppl have said - change the plugs. Its simple and cheap, so its the most sensible next step. Post up photos of the plug tips so we can have a look.

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

As a few ppl have said - change the plugs. Its simple and cheap, so its the most sensible next step. Post up photos of the plug tips so we can have a look.

+1

Not exactly hard, should have been the first thing u did really

Pr0x1mity Proficient

Pr0x1mity

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also make sure the crank angle sensor hasn't moved. If the timing is way out it will be rough.

The who what? How?

Plugs were changed about 3 weeks ago also btw.. they should be alright pirate.gif

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

The who what? How?

Plugs were changed about 3 weeks ago also btw.. they should be alright pirate.gif

He probably means the cam angle sensor - its the round thing with 3 bolts holding it on at the front, just to the right of the RB25 logo on the cam sprocket cover. You need a timing light to check it.

Have you located the misfiring cylinder? Have you moved the coilpack then spark plug to see if the missfire follows?

Pr0x1mity Proficient

Pr0x1mity

Posted
  • Author
Posted

He probably means the cam angle sensor - its the round thing with 3 bolts holding it on at the front, just to the right of the RB25 logo on the cam sprocket cover. You need a timing light to check it.

Have you located the misfiring cylinder? Have you moved the coilpack then spark plug to see if the missfire follows?

Got a pic? lol still not 100% sure.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...