Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So enyone going to join me at Wakefield on the 28th May for the SAU V Rotary 2nd track day?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/361770-s-a-u-n-s-w-wakefield-trackday-number-2-for-2011/page__gopid__5775117

Currently I'm able to claim the slowest and fastest times for the ACT. I know its a bit but it would be good if someone else could afford $400 to do a track day in the "sports" car we all own.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361829-wakefield-28-may/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Doesn't bother me there'll be plenty more track days. Mine was on the road most of last year and I've been to the drags 4 or 5 times in the last 6 months and that's been fun and crazily addictive!

Should add, the main reason of the offroading was actually gearbox repairs since I busted my second gearbox at WSID in Feb :)

Yes rubber and pads will be needed. Pre and/or post.

Just make sure your car and you are ready. Some people take their car to the track unprepared and come home in the front of a flat bed tow truck. Talk with someone who's been a few times and listen. IMHO - Cooling, oil flow, suspension and braking will make your experience a happy one.

:thumbsup:

Edited by Sinista32

Yeah new front pads before you go...rubber well that depends on how hard you go...my 33 on street rubber lasted a few track days but was taking it (kinda) easy and cause im awesome had no spins/offs :P, but passenger front tyre gets hammered at wakefield

GTR will be even worse for front tyre wear.

Also Fresh oil and 500ml overfill to prevent oil starvation

No loose objects (take out everything that might hurt if you crash and that includes subs/amps etc)

A wheel alignment before you go (nothing worse than the car darting to one side under brakes at near 200km/h)

And most importantly pay attention to what is going on around you Check your mirrors lots and let the faster guys through when you can

and watch for any yellow/red/chequred flags

and

RELAX AND HAVE FUN!!!

Ive heard after you've pretty much earned yourself a new set of tires and brake pads.. any info on that ?

It's not as bad as some make it out.

Tyres: I have Federal 595 RS-R, they have lasted 3 track days and will last another one. That have a 160 wear rating (fairly low) so other tyres should last longer. (depends on how you drive as well) As long as you have 50% tread you should be fine.

Brakes: I got 1 1/2 track days out of my original worn pads, About the same for the disks. I upgraded the pads to EBC yellow and RDA rotors from the group buy later and have not had an issue with 3 track days, they still have plenty left in them. Again as long as you have 50% life in pads you should be fine. I note I am looking and a big brake kit now, but the brakes suffice for now.

Oil: I always put new oil in and put and extra 500-1000ml in after it is full as a safety margin. Also replace the oil after a track day.

Oil temp: Do you have an oil cooler? If not you I stongly recommend Castrol 10-60, it will keep your oil temp lower all day and keep that important protection at the high levels of heat a full track day will cause. I have a spare bottle if you need as I should get my oil cooler before the track day.

Fire entinguisher: Get a supercheap one, securley install somewhere you can easily reach it. Mine is bolted to the car, if that million of 1 chance you get into a serious accident you want to know where it is. (also CAMS requirement)

Metal valve caps: Just spend $5 at supercheap and get them.

Wheel alignment: Unless your car has not had one for ages or shows signed of needing one, save your money. The best alignment for the track are terrible for the road, lots of camber. If you can take your car up on a trailer, then get a track based alignment and then set it back to a normal alignment when you come back.

Other issues I've come accross

Turbo's: If you still have the original turbo's, they are a time bomb 15 years old and not made of metal. Get them replaced. I learned the hard way.

Intercooler piping: Replace with a hard piping kit, 15 yo soft piping does fail.

Variable torque controllers: Great things to help stop the rear end swinging out

Trailer: Great for if your day ends suddenly, also easier end of the day drive back and you can make some great mates with people who you lend it to if need be. Luckily I've never been in this situation and I will be driving up.

It's not as bad as some make it out.

Tyres: I have Federal 595 RS-R, they have lasted 3 track days and will last another one. That have a 160 wear rating (fairly low) so other tyres should last longer. (depends on how you drive as well) As long as you have 50% tread you should be fine.

Brakes: I got 1 1/2 track days out of my original worn pads, About the same for the disks. I upgraded the pads to EBC yellow and RDA rotors from the group buy later and have not had an issue with 3 track days, they still have plenty left in them. Again as long as you have 50% life in pads you should be fine. I note I am looking and a big brake kit now, but the brakes suffice for now.

Oil: I always put new oil in and put and extra 500-1000ml in after it is full as a safety margin. Also replace the oil after a track day.

Oil temp: Do you have an oil cooler? If not you I stongly recommend Castrol 10-60, it will keep your oil temp lower all day and keep that important protection at the high levels of heat a full track day will cause. I have a spare bottle if you need as I should get my oil cooler before the track day.

Fire entinguisher: Get a supercheap one, securley install somewhere you can easily reach it. Mine is bolted to the car, if that million of 1 chance you get into a serious accident you want to know where it is. (also CAMS requirement)

Metal valve caps: Just spend $5 at supercheap and get them.

Wheel alignment: Unless your car has not had one for ages or shows signed of needing one, save your money. The best alignment for the track are terrible for the road, lots of camber. If you can take your car up on a trailer, then get a track based alignment and then set it back to a normal alignment when you come back.

Other issues I've come accross

Turbo's: If you still have the original turbo's, they are a time bomb 15 years old and not made of metal. Get them replaced. I learned the hard way.

Intercooler piping: Replace with a hard piping kit, 15 yo soft piping does fail.

Variable torque controllers: Great things to help stop the rear end swinging out

Trailer: Great for if your day ends suddenly, also easier end of the day drive back and you can make some great mates with people who you lend it to if need be. Luckily I've never been in this situation and I will be driving up.

RSR's are track tyres (kinda) so handle the temps better, normal road tyres fall to bits and make you feel like you are driving on ice when they get to hot.

I never said go and buy Ikeya Formula Suspension arms and spend 2k on an alignment, I said get one to prevent things being difficult under brakes/mid corner etc You WILL find issues with your suspension on the track that you would never notice on the street

Also no need to go buy new turbos for 1 track day.

Just turn the boost down to standard and stay off the limiter

and your right foot, stops the rear end getting loose :P (bloody Cheater cars lol)

RSR's are track tyres (kinda) so handle the temps better, normal road tyres fall to bits and make you feel like you are driving on ice when they get to hot.

I never said go and buy Ikeya Formula Suspension arms and spend 2k on an alignment, I said get one to prevent things being difficult under brakes/mid corner etc You WILL find issues with your suspension on the track that you would never notice on the street

Also no need to go buy new turbos for 1 track day. Just turn the boost down to standard and stay off the limiter

and your right foot, stops the rear end getting loose :P (bloody Cheater cars lol)

I can only say that in my experiance with the exact same car, I've had the 595 SS and they didn't fall to bits. Actually no tyre except the very expensive type has ever gone off on a track day when the heat gets to them from the people I've gone up with. On the other hand I have heard plenty of people complain about their slower then expected lap times and blame the tyres. Not sure this was the tyres fault :P. Put it another way, ever watch "days of thunder"? When the mechanic tells tom cruise how to drive, he gets better times and doesn't tear up the tyres. Drive a car smooth and far less damage is caused to the tyres, any type of tyre. Saying that, you will use a lot of the tyre during the day however you drive.

Again I have not experianced any issued with my standard alignment going to the track. I do not think this is worth the money unless you know or think there may be a problem. That's my opinion based solely on my experianced with this car, track days, and common sense. Yes you will notice effects more at higher speeds, but they will still be there at slower speeds. You would be better spending the money getting a place like ESP to do a full check over of the car to ensure it is right for a track day.

I probably would not buy new turbo's for a track day. But I ended up with a 10K bill for repairs because that is exactly what happened to ME. Boost on standard and doing a warm up lap. (OK I got a few upgrades at the same time) I've heard many people doing track days on standard turbo's fine. I've also heard of plenty of ORIGINAL turbo's failing after 10-15 years of use.

I get into trouble with Dereck from 5th gear about my right foot all the time. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...