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Recently bought an r33 with these pre-installed and want to remove them...anyone got advice on how to do so and how easy it is? I have no removal instructions at all and haven't found any after searching. Looks like they're connected to the ECU, but never having touched electronics I don't want to fiddle too much without getting some advice first.

Cheers

wtf is a LEBC and a DFA ?

if its just crap thats tapped into the wiring then disconnect the battery and start chopping, tape up anything thats not insulated - dont want shit shorting out

as long as nothing is actually broken and run through these jaycar components you should be alright, if wiring has been broken and is running through these units then u gotta bridge it back together, if this is too complicated dont do it yourself lol, it'll just make the next guys job even harder

wtf is a LEBC and a DFA ?

if its just crap thats tapped into the wiring then disconnect the battery and start chopping, tape up anything thats not insulated - dont want shit shorting out

as long as nothing is actually broken and run through these jaycar components you should be alright, if wiring has been broken and is running through these units then u gotta bridge it back together, if this is too complicated dont do it yourself lol, it'll just make the next guys job even harder

IEBC = elec boost controller

DFA = Digital Fuel Adjuster

They come as electronic kits from Jaycar which you put together

Might be better selling the ECU with these installed and then put the $$$$ towards getting a nistune/pfc/vipec etc etc

Someone starting out will buy it as a first step performance upgrade???

Uncover the ecu. If you are lucky they will be connected with a loom extension so just unplug that and put the original plug back into the ecu.

If not: the wires are connected to the wires going into the plug and you can either unsolder them or just cut the wires off and tape up the exposed joins WITH TWO EXCEPTIONS

1. The IEBC interrupts the signal to the boost solenoid so you will have to remove the Jaycar wires from the wire going to the boost solennoid pin and join back together the cut ends of the boost solenoid wire. You will also have to replumb the vacuum/boost lines under the bonnet going to the solenoid and to the wastegate actuator.

2. The DFA interrupts the signal from the afm so again the wire going to that pin has been similarly cut and will need to be rejoined.

What car is it on and why are you taking it off?

If you are not sure about this don't start or you may end up with a dead engine.

Ask if you want more info.

Uncover the ecu. If you are lucky they will be connected with a loom extension so just unplug that and put the original plug back into the ecu.

If not: the wires are connected to the wires going into the plug and you can either unsolder them or just cut the wires off and tape up the exposed joins WITH TWO EXCEPTIONS

1. The IEBC interrupts the signal to the boost solenoid so you will have to remove the Jaycar wires from the wire going to the boost solennoid pin and join back together the cut ends of the boost solenoid wire. You will also have to replumb the vacuum/boost lines under the bonnet going to the solenoid and to the wastegate actuator.

2. The DFA interrupts the signal from the afm so again the wire going to that pin has been similarly cut and will need to be rejoined.

What car is it on and why are you taking it off?

If you are not sure about this don't start or you may end up with a dead engine.

Ask if you want more info.

Thanks for the reply. They're on a Series 2 R33.

Want to remove them and try the car stock, seems a little sluggish compared to my previous S1. Also have a turbotech manual boost controller which did a decent enough job, so would rather get the jaycar stuff out and hock it and put the manual BC in.

The iebc is a great unit, I would rate it over the manual one. The dfa is just jaycars equivalent of a safc. Have you shout about getting it tuned? With should eliminate the sluggishness. Food for thought

I had a Jaycar ebc. It was a great unit - took a little practice to find how it worked but could adjust speed of build boost finely. Also had a switch so you could have two complete maps. ( I only sold it because I got a Link which will do the boost control as well). Ran it with a SITC SLD and SAFC as I had an auto Stagea at the time - their unique ecus don't allow for nistune or other aftermarket ecu but now manual so all good.

If you dont have any idea on electronics, then playing around with AFM wires probably isnt advisable becuase you dont want to get that signal wrong.

I've accidentally wired a Z32 AFM backwards and it survived.

Uneek: See me on the w/e and I'll take a look.

I've accidentally wired a Z32 AFM backwards and it survived.

Uneek: See me on the w/e and I'll take a look.

you were damn lucky nothing else... electronics are a very touchie thing, the wrong voltage could kill something important in the afm or worse the ecu

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