Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok Im not a fan of anything rice and spending $150 on a piece of sheet alloy with a $90 degree bend in it and a few holes wasnt my idea of fun. So after looking on google there were plenty of DIY out there for different cars. I got my inspiration from a few pics of them for the 34 GTR (can get them for your specific model of car if you wish) and to give me a general idea of the shape etc etc. My finished product is by no means perfect but for a fun cheap DIY im very happy with the results.

Took me a few days of tinkering here and there. Cost me $15 as i had the paint at home.

tools required were:

Files (flat and round)

10mm spanner

flat tip screwdriver (for popping out a few clips)

drill

angle grinder or other cutting device (plasma cutter etc)

bench grinder/snader if possible (you can just use the files)

Materials:

Cardboard

sheet of alloy

Paint if required

First of all was the cardboard model:

DSC03209.jpg

Next I bought a piece of alloy, cost me $15 and traced the pattern:

DSC03210.jpg

I used the workshop at work and first cut the pattern with all the holes out. I was lucky as we have a plasma cutter at work, sounds fancy but is only good as you are at making a straight cut and requires a fair bit of sanding in the bench grinder/sander etc.

Once all parts were cut and drilled I then made the bend as required.

Once its all cut you will most likely need to make adjustments to get it to fit, cardboard just doesnt represent alloy all that well for the amateur like myself. Metal smith=no worries.

And it resembled the following:

DSC03211.jpg

Due to the tool marks and clamp marks I painted mine black (plus i prefer it on the white car):

DSC03212.jpg

Before installation:

DSC03164.jpg

And fitted:

DSC03213.jpg

DSC03214.jpg

DSC03215.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362521-i-made-my-own-cooling-plate/
Share on other sites

does this actually do anything?

Yes, it forces all air coming through the grille to go through the radiator, rather than some going over the top of the radiator support; bypassing the radiator completely. Air will always take the path of least resistance

I've often wondered if it would be beneficial to duct the intake snorkel down through the cooling plate to pick up some of that cool air too.

Edited by Daleo

i was just about to attempt this exact same thing for my 34gtt. only ones i can find for a gtt are 150-180+....and they are not worth that much coin. ill post pics up soon as i bash one out. great job mate! looks killer. btw, how did you go about the 90deg bend? and what thickness plate did you go for?

thanks mate

LOl thanks guys,

I Used 1.5mm alloy, its a good thickness, easy enough to work with.

For the 90 degree bend i just marked where i wanted the bend to be, then placed it on the bench with the marks for the bend on the edge of the table and hit the over hang with a hammer (I have a soft head hammer, so it didnt mark the metal). It required a few little love taps here and there once i started fitting to the car, but it come out straight.

THAT LOOKS AWESOME MATE!!!

do have a question tho.. i thought that air for the air filter came from there? i might be completely wrong but im looking at doing somethin similar but addin an air duct in the plate directing some of the air to the original factory air duct..

Cheers

Herbie

do have a question tho.. i thought that air for the air filter came from there? i might be completely wrong but im looking at doing somethin similar but addin an air duct in the plate directing some of the air to the original factory air duct..

The airbox snorkle will just suck air from wherever it can find it :) I think this will restrict some of the cooler air but i doubt it will have any effect.

BTW, looks fantastic! Quite keen to give it a crack on mine now

THAT LOOKS AWESOME MATE!!!

do have a question tho.. i thought that air for the air filter came from there? i might be completely wrong but im looking at doing somethin similar but addin an air duct in the plate directing some of the air to the original factory air duct..

Cheers

Herbie

Thanks Mate

All the cooliong plates i was looking at like the ARC ones etc etc all run the same desgin i used. I figured if theres runs like that it cant be that bad for the cool air.

I gave it a crack as well, didn't even use a cardboard template.. just measured and drew on the ally.

Shitty camera phone pic at night but you get the idea. Have edged it with some split 4mm vaccum tube and will paint it black when I get a chance to grab some UHT Black.

Will also look at some "wings" to go down the sides between the cooler and radiator (have gutted aircon and mounted 2x thermo fans where the condenser used to be).

post-31803-0-60115100-1305611446_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...