Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, wondering if anyone has got a way of securing external mods (body kits ect.) against theft.

I picked up my r33 last night And sadly the only parking I have is open set. Anyway got woken up at 4am by someone from my apartment block saying he scared off 4 guys in black hoodies around the wheels of my new car!!

Upon inspection sure enough the pricks undid about 3 screws from my gtr sideskirt and broke the sealant away from the body!

Not a good first night of skyline ownership for me.

My point being, does anyone have any method of making their bodykit for lack of a better word un-removable??

Urgent help!! I am keeping it locked up at work tonight but I need a quickfix!

Cheers guys

Not a good idea to make body parts unremovable. Get a good alarm system that has level sensors that will set off the alarm if the car is jacked up. Better to wake up your whole neighborhood then to have your shit stolen.

Could also try hiding what type of car it is by getting a car blanket, bit tedious taking it on and off everyday so guess it depends on how motivated you are to stop them.

Could also try hiding what type of car it is by getting a car blanket, bit tedious taking it on and off everyday so guess it depends on how motivated you are to stop them.

Whenever I see car's with blankets over them I was always go "hrmmm what's under there" :turned: There going to look under it regardless I would think.

Just get a good alarm system and a sniper.

Well they didn't jack it up so what in thinkin is puttin hex screws in, getting two perfect lengths of chain and padlocking then around the whole car just near the wheels and then putting a cover over it?

Yeh it's gunna be hell tedious getting in to my car every morning and lockin up with protecting the paintwork from the chain but hopefully they won't be able to get the skirts.. At least until I find a new place with a proper garage

There are a few ways to deter a thief, but as above, if the c***s want something badly enough... sad.gif

1. Regarding the body kit. You could try a good sikaflex/urethane and the "one-way" screws that you can buy for number plates, problem being if you ever want to remove any part of the kit, you'd have to cut it off to remove the "glue", and there's an increased risk of it being broken and left on the car if they have another dig at it.

2. Security nuts, providing they're the type that use an INTERNAL socket, not external (ie. a pattern on the inside and round on the outer, so that no-one can just hammer a plain socket on) are a good idea to help protect your wheels. And don't chuck the socket to un-do them in the glovebox as it defies the point, attach it to your keys where possible. But again, it'll raise the risk of someone breaking in or breaking a window to find the socket.

3. As above, a decent alarm with shock/level sensors will help.

Yeh had the idea kinda like the siklaflex one, maybe drilling the heads of the screws so they are bured out to not work then slapping some bog over them to kinda hide the position, n if I do need to take it off one day just crack the bog away and drill out the screws?

I like the idea of one way screws however...

It was in yokine ahh33, I'm surprised at how quick they were to pick up on it bein there as it was the first night of having it

Its parked right next to the apartment block and the shelter has a normal light right above our car space so I dunno if itd deter them, had an idea for a security camera looking on it though.. Alot of work running cables ect. :s

There are a few ways to deter a thief, but as above, if the c***s want something badly enough... sad.gif

1. Regarding the body kit. You could try a good sikaflex/urethane and the "one-way" screws that you can buy for number plates, problem being if you ever want to remove any part of the kit, you'd have to cut it off to remove the "glue", and there's an increased risk of it being broken and left on the car if they have another dig at it.

2. Security nuts, providing they're the type that use an INTERNAL socket, not external (ie. a pattern on the inside and round on the outer, so that no-one can just hammer a plain socket on) are a good idea to help protect your wheels. And don't chuck the socket to un-do them in the glovebox as it defies the point, attach it to your keys where possible. But again, it'll raise the risk of someone breaking in or breaking a window to find the socket.

3. As above, a decent alarm with shock/level sensors will help.

There it is. Security nuts for the wheels, keep security socket on keyring, quality alarm system professionally installed, security light in carport, dummy security camera could be the go. Body kits, probably accept that they could be ripped off but are replaceable. If you can't go that road get a lockup garage. Attractive items cost money to protect, that's all.

Cheers GW

Yeh had the idea kinda like the siklaflex one, maybe drilling the heads of the screws so they are bured out to not work then slapping some bog over them to kinda hide the position, n if I do need to take it off one day just crack the bog away and drill out the screws?

I like the idea of one way screws however...

It was in yokine ahh33, I'm surprised at how quick they were to pick up on it bein there as it was the first night of having it

Could it be linked to previous owner???

I don't know but it seems unlikely, he's a fairly genuin guy and loved the car to bits. Was also shocked to hear about it, the chain seemed to work last night but pain in the arse to get in in the morning hahah looks quite funny with a chain around it

I would have to agree with these as well.

1. Security nuts (Expensive ones, different sets for front and rear wheels) for the wheels.

2. Quality alarm system professionally installed.

3. Security light (Movement sensor ones) in carport.

4. Security camera (If you want to spend abit more).

I actually can't think of a reason why they would want to steal a body kit though. :P Maybe they are not capable of stealing other parts?

It's a pain to worry about your pride-and-joy when it's parked out in the open. That's why I waited until I got a house with a lock-up garage. Then, I put on a security flood light (Movement sensor ones). Plus, my car already got a decent alarm system on the car.

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...