Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Serious? I thought it would take more than that to keep up with your car in a straight line, what power is Blaise running?

I'd say there might be a 1:22 in it at Sandown the way my car is at the moment, although I don't know how it will handle the ripple strip abuse.....

Blaises car is 280awkw's - but only 1240kgs. compared to my 330rwkw's and 1620kgs he has me smacked on PTW. Kills me in a straight line.

But 280kw's on a 2.0L EMO with one of those cheater EMO 9 RS turbo's and E85 is not that hard to achieve.

I still wouldn't do though as then I'd have to start wearing a dress on weekends.

for those on the lazy here is a direct link straight to Troy's sliding action.

Mat, I'm on Blue Stuff front and Yellow Stuff rear. Got em from these guys http://ksport.co.uk/.

iirc the rear pads for $135 landed and the fronts were $170. My Fronts are big though. 6 track days down and the rears have 85%, fronts have 40%.

I used PMU HC+ from rhdjap when I had the standard calipers, but was only getting 3-4 track days out of em. They had better initial bite than the blue I have now, though very much the same. But at $250+ a pair...

I'm not sure if you can get some hawk pads form the states on the cheap cheap with the dollar?

LOL...really appreciate you posting those pictures. For the life of me I cant hear when the RE55s lock up. I have been told the AO50s are a bit easier to drive on as they give you a good squeal. But yet to try them. I am running far too racier a pad for my weight of car and rotor size as they really are nice after a number of laps, but up until that point when they are still coming up to temp they are easy to lock up. The flip side is they are very kind on rotors, but alas they dont seem to be too easy on tyres when they are cold :)

The original idea was to go as big a rotor/caliper setup as I could get under a 17" wheel then run street pads as they would offer plenty of cooling. I wanted to try the PFC06 as they are an endurance pad and are qiet, low rotor wear and not dusty....but they are hard to get up to temp

Also, doesnt help that I have big ARC front swaybars on rose joints which really need to be set with the ride heights and corner balancing. No surprise that the brake locks ups when there is a little turn in and trail braking going on and I suspect the big fron swaybar is unloading the inside tyre when there is body roll

Could be worse...

Where the fk the track go???

IMG_0526.JPG

Bunch more pics here(think we got every-one..)

https://picasaweb.google.com/mfsull/WintonMay2011#

usual thing, if you want full res email me the filename and will bounce them over

file name can be found on the right eG:

Filename: IMG_0526.JPG

Second last lap of the day, wasn't the fastest but Natsoft shows it as a 1:35.9. Notice around the 1:20 mark the wheelspin from the faulty ACD not giving me drive at the front wheels.

If only I had a clear run.....

Second last lap of the day, wasn't the fastest but Natsoft shows it as a 1:35.9. Notice around the 1:20 mark the wheelspin from the faulty ACD not giving me drive at the front wheels.

Lol that was an interesting entry for the sweeper indeed :)

As quick as the Evo is that soundtrack leaves a lot to be desired :D

Snowy - that weight diff is huge...close to 400kg makes a lot of difference. I'm surprised that the R wouldn't catch the the Emo higher in the rev range.

Thats a cool pic!

Watching Jacks vid side by side with mine the biggest difference is straight line acceleration! Corners are about the same, perhaps me a tad quicker... but under brakes and in a straight line I am being murdered....lol i need e85

Can only imagine what the difference would have been with your previous setup, much more response than what you have now so your corner exit would have been much better. I say go the e85, hopefully it will wake it up in the lower rev range.... :thumbsup:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
×
×
  • Create New...