Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


R34 Gtr Lower Control Arm Replacement And Ball Joint Issues


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've cleaned up a gutter in the R34 GTR and am replacing both of the front lower control arms. Only one of the control arms has both joints on it so I need to remove the joints off one of my existing control arms but am unable to get one of them off. I can get the inner ball joint off (the one with four bolts going through it, but the suspension ball joint side, the side that attatches to the knuckle, I simply cannot get the nut off it. When I rotate the nut it rotates the bolt, even tried to multigrips on the thread but still no luck. Any advice would be great!!!

I've completely removed the brakes and all suspension from one side so its literally an empty wheel arch and am attempting to put the new complete control arm (that came with both ball joints on it) on but am not having any luck. If I put the inner joint in first so thats the side with four nuts/bolts going through and then try and get the axel/pin through on the other side (remember no brake or knuckle on so only two sides to fit at the moment) I just can't get it in. I get it to like within a milimeter but the pin just won't go through, its like I need a guide attatched to the front of it to steer it through. If I do the reverse and put the axle/pin through first and then try to put the inner ball joint side on the four bolts simply don't line up. Any suggestions??

If anyone wants photos I'm happy to take some to assist with understanding this issue and apologise if my description is pretty shit, I'm far from being a mechanic...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know what you mean, done all that suspension work on a 32 and I am replacing some suspension bits on my 34 due to wear at the moment.

Put a small screwdriver through one end of the hole and manipulate to get the bolt through. It can be a pain. Also just put the inner ball joint on loose to start off with.

Just unbolt the balljoint from the hub, should be 2 nuts, with the busted arm still attatched. Spend $100-150 on a brand new ball joint, sorted.

Or you will need to hammer the control arm back into the ball joint to lock it into it's wedge, as they are wedged in (the balljoint and the control arm hole has a taper) when they are done up.

Then you can try to undo the nut again, with the thread liberally sprayed with WD40 etc.

Replacing the ball joint would be better and easier though, especially if it has had a big impact, I have seen ball joints fail with pretty bad consequences.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so thats the problem I don't have the joint still on the arm, its completely off and thats why the nut won't come off.

Do you know where I could source a new ball jolint from if I need to as the impact was pretty bad???

I also need new sway bar links and have had trouble sourcing them any ideas??

I've got new rear lower arms and the other arms not sure their name so will be replacing those also, as well as coilovers. My problem is now that I just cannot get the rear coilover off, the bolt/nut is just on way too tight and simply budge. Looks like I need to get myself some decent tools and a big ass breaker bar.

Thanks heaps mate, I'll get back to you once I've had a chance to give it another go.

Much appreciated!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

No probs. I usually go just jap online and they have ball joints available. Or nissan spare parts, just supply your vin number.

Electric rattle gun 240volt with 300NM torque makes short work of tight bolts and nuts. I think I got it from bunnings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
    • My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)
    • my first time on the track, just after getting the 32. tyres were 3yr old NT01's, rotors were cactus, pads were street pads. You can see the vibrations when I hit the brakes lol. After this is when I put new BDA rotors, Hi Temp Brake fluid and Intima type 2 pads. Wow what a difference
    • I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder. 
    • Which one do you use? Your bottom end is still standard isn't it?
×
×
  • Create New...