Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm using the rotors and callipers front and rear of an R33 GTSt on my AE86, now I want to find out what rims are available in 16" (remember its a corolla to that is the largest I can fit) that will clear the brakes from the R33 and have minimal offset as the general +40 area of offset hits struts in a massive way. As far as the width of the rim 6" or 7" is prob all I need as offsets aint in my favour so a slimmer rim will be nicer as its getting engineered.

My pcd is 5x114.3 so if you have had low offset 16's on your 33 GTSt let me know what they are

32 GTR better than GTST. offset is +30 but being 8 inch wide you loose a bit of that backspace in width. would look pretty cool. you should be quite easily able to get some aftermarket 16X8 or 16X7s in a +20 or +10 though.

I think I may have a solution...R33 GTSt space savers, have them chopped up and re welded with 8" wide dish and choice offset! may not look the best but it works well and it cost effective, plus if I smash a rim I don't care as much as a $2700 set of works...I can always find some nice daily rims for it later when I can use spacers!

yikes! not sure a set of space savers with new barrels welded on is a good idea. they will be heavy as fk as they are steel not alloy like 90% of other wheels. on top of that they are designed with a 2inch tyre in mind. sure with a new barrel they might work but I really don't think it'll be a good thing. For the cost of buying 4 barrels, 4 space savers (actually not that cheap) and getting them welded and balanced you can surely find a nice set of used 5 stud 16s with the offset and width you want. plus you have to hope the bloke welding them did a good job and balancing the things will probably be nearly impossible.

the barrels will probably cost you $150-$200 each anyway. buy the time you buy all the bits and have them made and painted it will probably be around $1200-$1500 for the set of abortion wheels. for around that money you could get a set of simmons or ROH or something made in custom size/offset. I would look into that. or just buy some used wheels from ebay or yahoo or forums etc.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...