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R34 Auto Complete Flush

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Hello all skyline-ne-ans

Dex 3 was in gearbox when i bought the car beeen told that should do fine just change more often ... do wanna try getting back to tranzmax z but my head mechanic informs me that if i swap from one to the other it will fk the gear box

Mineral to sinthetic is bad plan.

I was wondering if i did the flush by disconecting the cooler pipe and flushed it like 3 or four times with tranz max z drop the sump and changed the filter then fill if that would be suitable

or as the boss said the only way to get rid of it all is "strip the bi**h"

Edited by simjim89
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Drop pan, change filter then undo cooler return line, feed it into a bucket then run car constantly topping up trans while old fluid runs into bucket. You can expect to use a lot of oil depending on the condition of whats in there.

This will get 90% of old oil out but obviously there will still be some remains in converter, etc.

Won't hurt at all...

As for mixing fluids it sounds ridiculous but I have seen some cars come through the shop that drive like a dream then after a service, flush, whatever drive like crap for no apparent reason...

Saying that these were normally old cars. Wouldn't hesitate to change fluids.

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Drop the pan - clean the filter (its a metal strainer) and put the pan back on. Pull off a line from the trans cooler and run the engine to fill a 2L bottle. Pour 2L fresh stuff down the dip stick tube. Repeat - it will take 12 -14L till it comes out clean. I used a Fuchs semi synthetic (can also use it for the power steering and Attessa if you have it so get a 20L drum ).

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As for mixing fluids it sounds ridiculous but I have seen some cars come through the shop that drive like a dream then after a service, flush, whatever drive like crap for no apparent reason...

Saying that these were normally old cars. Wouldn't hesitate to change fluids.

That sounds like this (from the Castrol AU FAQ) - Its to do with putting new fluid (any new fluid) in a transmission that's running very old fluid, not about synthetic with non-synthetic.

"How to change the ATF?

I have heard that there are occasions when it is not recommended to change the ATF, but what are these?

It is not recommended to change the ATF in cars where no change has been performed for a considerable time (generally regarded as 50, 000Km from new, or 40, 000Km for K-cars), or where the maintenance history of the vehicle is unclear. Prolonged usage without an ATF change leads to a build-up of particles on the filter, resulting from wear of the gear and clutch parts, and of sludge, which accumulates as the oil deteriorates. An ATF change at this stage can cause these particles and impurities to circulate and jam into the shift valves or clog up oil ducts, creating more trouble. Furthermore, ATF changes are not recommended in cases of severe conditions of use such as towing or driving on punishing roads, or where there is an apparent problem with the Automatic Transmission operation.

Not changing the ATF can cause an increase in 'shift-shock' and affect system line. It is generally recommended that ATF changes are performed at regular intervals of 20, 000Km or 2 years, whichever is first, although manufacturers recommendations should be observed.

It is apparent that ATF has many important functions and must provide an extremely high level of performance. Recently the demands on ATF performance have been further increased with the rising application of Lockup Clutches in the drive for improved fuel efficiency. "

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What world do they live in? 40K to 50k a long time? Most cars would be lucky to see an atf change ever. However the above article does reinforce the case against power flushing as offered by some auto shops as that is likely to lead to problems with seals etc. However overheated or burnt fluid is not good for your auto and a simple drain and refill is a good idea ( the whole 12+ litres not just the little bit in the pan).

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there are sealed auto units not on skylines tho where u carnt check the oil basicly u just follow the schedule .... hmmm ill go back and talk to him or go see an auto trannie specialist and see what they think

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  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys.

i'm attempting to flush my r34gtt auto transmission but need some tips on how to remove the trans sump.

so far i managed to get most of the bolts out but there are about 3 or four bolts toward the front of the car that are being blocked by a metal pipe (i think its about -4an or -3an).

how do i access those bolts that are blocked?


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There should be 2 small metal brackets with 2x 10mm headed bolts holdings the pipes in places, take those bolts out it will allow the pipes to move a tiny bit. Then its just a matter of pulling the 4x pan bolts out, is easier to do if you use a 3/8 socket or even 1/4inch set.

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aah, i see.

i did undo those 2 bolts but didnt want to bend or move it too much, just in case i break something else.

thanks heaps!

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