Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all skyline-ne-ans

Dex 3 was in gearbox when i bought the car beeen told that should do fine just change more often ... do wanna try getting back to tranzmax z but my head mechanic informs me that if i swap from one to the other it will fk the gear box

Mineral to sinthetic is bad plan.

I was wondering if i did the flush by disconecting the cooler pipe and flushed it like 3 or four times with tranz max z drop the sump and changed the filter then fill if that would be suitable

or as the boss said the only way to get rid of it all is "strip the bi**h"

Edited by simjim89
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363774-r34-auto-complete-flush/
Share on other sites

Drop pan, change filter then undo cooler return line, feed it into a bucket then run car constantly topping up trans while old fluid runs into bucket. You can expect to use a lot of oil depending on the condition of whats in there.

This will get 90% of old oil out but obviously there will still be some remains in converter, etc.

Won't hurt at all...

As for mixing fluids it sounds ridiculous but I have seen some cars come through the shop that drive like a dream then after a service, flush, whatever drive like crap for no apparent reason...

Saying that these were normally old cars. Wouldn't hesitate to change fluids.

Drop the pan - clean the filter (its a metal strainer) and put the pan back on. Pull off a line from the trans cooler and run the engine to fill a 2L bottle. Pour 2L fresh stuff down the dip stick tube. Repeat - it will take 12 -14L till it comes out clean. I used a Fuchs semi synthetic (can also use it for the power steering and Attessa if you have it so get a 20L drum ).

As for mixing fluids it sounds ridiculous but I have seen some cars come through the shop that drive like a dream then after a service, flush, whatever drive like crap for no apparent reason...

Saying that these were normally old cars. Wouldn't hesitate to change fluids.

That sounds like this (from the Castrol AU FAQ) - Its to do with putting new fluid (any new fluid) in a transmission that's running very old fluid, not about synthetic with non-synthetic.

"How to change the ATF?

I have heard that there are occasions when it is not recommended to change the ATF, but what are these?

It is not recommended to change the ATF in cars where no change has been performed for a considerable time (generally regarded as 50, 000Km from new, or 40, 000Km for K-cars), or where the maintenance history of the vehicle is unclear. Prolonged usage without an ATF change leads to a build-up of particles on the filter, resulting from wear of the gear and clutch parts, and of sludge, which accumulates as the oil deteriorates. An ATF change at this stage can cause these particles and impurities to circulate and jam into the shift valves or clog up oil ducts, creating more trouble. Furthermore, ATF changes are not recommended in cases of severe conditions of use such as towing or driving on punishing roads, or where there is an apparent problem with the Automatic Transmission operation.

Not changing the ATF can cause an increase in 'shift-shock' and affect system line. It is generally recommended that ATF changes are performed at regular intervals of 20, 000Km or 2 years, whichever is first, although manufacturers recommendations should be observed.

It is apparent that ATF has many important functions and must provide an extremely high level of performance. Recently the demands on ATF performance have been further increased with the rising application of Lockup Clutches in the drive for improved fuel efficiency. "

What world do they live in? 40K to 50k a long time? Most cars would be lucky to see an atf change ever. However the above article does reinforce the case against power flushing as offered by some auto shops as that is likely to lead to problems with seals etc. However overheated or burnt fluid is not good for your auto and a simple drain and refill is a good idea ( the whole 12+ litres not just the little bit in the pan).

  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys.

i'm attempting to flush my r34gtt auto transmission but need some tips on how to remove the trans sump.

so far i managed to get most of the bolts out but there are about 3 or four bolts toward the front of the car that are being blocked by a metal pipe (i think its about -4an or -3an).

how do i access those bolts that are blocked?

thanks

There should be 2 small metal brackets with 2x 10mm headed bolts holdings the pipes in places, take those bolts out it will allow the pipes to move a tiny bit. Then its just a matter of pulling the 4x pan bolts out, is easier to do if you use a 3/8 socket or even 1/4inch set.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...