Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Sounds Rough Like A Wrx With No Power

BLK-51N

By BLK-51N,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

BLK-51N Proficient

BLK-51N

Posted
Posted

Hey guys i just picked my car up from the machanics were it had just got new splitfire coils nd plugs put in nd on the drive home i was testing it out nd all of a suddend it started sounding real rough nd has no power now. almost sounds like a wrx but with no power

Can any1 give me any ideas 2 wat might of happend?

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

Time to learn how to change coil packs yourself. You'll need 2 hands, a socket set and a set of hex keys. Go get 'em cowboy/cowgirl.

No seriously....the mechanic didn't put them on properly. Either a plug has fallen off a coilpack, the coilpack isn't seated onto the plug properly or the screws are missing from the coilpack brackets. Many mechanics are so hopeless it could be all 3.

You will work it out by taking it apart and putting it back together. The coilpacks are under the cover in between the cam covers, under the cross-over intake pipe. Yes, you have to remove the cross-over pipe, then it is plain sailing. You do not have to remove the spark plugs. Make it a game and time yourself. If you do it in less than 60mins your GF owes you a blowey.

Edited by simpletool
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Take car back to mechanics?

If you want to do it yourself, remove the valley cover...then put the pipes back together so you can start it up again. While idling, remove and replace each coilpack loom plug...one at a time...until you get to a coilpack that makes no difference to how the car sounds. This is your non-firing cylinder. Try swapping that coilpack with another healthy coilpack, and see if the non-firing cylinder has changed places or stayed in the same spot. If the problem follows that coilpack to the other cylinder, then faulty coilpack...if the problems stays at the same cylinder then it could be a faulty spark plug or coilpack loom plug.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

My car done this with brand new coils. One of the coils died. Then they all died. New set works brilliantly. One of your cylinders isn't sparking. Unplug each coil one by one with the engine running to see which one does not make it run worse. When you unplug one and you don't notice a change, you know that cylinder setup is f**ked.

cannabiscorpse Mentor

cannabiscorpse

Posted
Posted (edited)

Probably not what mine was, but after i replaced my ecu i found the connection wasnt the best and was causing this exact same thing. I also had the same thing happen when i replaced my coil packs, and in a hurry forgot to clip number 6 back in!

Edited by cannabiscorpse
cannabiscorpse Mentor

cannabiscorpse

Posted
Posted

Oh yeah, and definately do ur plugs and coil packs ur self from now on- you wouldnt believe how easy it is. Im not the most mechanically minded person and it takes me less than half an hour to pull out gap and replace all my plugs.. not worth paying someone else for it, especially since they got it wrong

  • 2 weeks later...
xtermin8or Collaborator

xtermin8or

Posted
Posted

Check if the ground for the ignitor pack is properly on . And if it starts doing it while it gets hotter its most likely the ignitor module. Try using a spray like contact cleaner and spray it on the ignitor while the car is running as the contact cleaner will cool the igniter down very quickly and your revs might stabilise. Thats what happened to my car , had to get a ignitor from the wreckers , and problem solved. Wish i knew that before i changed to another set of Splitfires and new plugs..

This problem occurs mostly with CA's because theyre so old now , so I guess since RB's are getting older this is going to start happening to them aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...