Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dears,

I have problem with head block, it's always opening after drag race (2 runs or 3 runs), I changed the head bolts from RB25DET ARP bolts to RB26DET ARP bolts but still the same, The Head block is removed from the block after 2 runs or 3 runs, also I changed the Head but still the same.

Please see the following is my car engine info:

Horse Power: 1380

RB26 Head with RB30 Block

Cometic Head Gasket Kit – RB26DET - Thickness: 1.3m

RB30 CP Pistons 87m with 8.0 compression ratio

250HP Nitrous

RB26 ARP Head bolts (I tighted the head with more torque)

I don't know what to do?????

Please this is for those who reached 1300HP and above.

Thanks!

Hey mate,

I think your block may be warped to some extent.

I recommend you pull it down and have it X rayed and then decked. X raying the block will show you if the problem will simply reoccur with time. If the block is bowed it is likely that the bow is formed deep into the casting and will just continue to warp its form over and over with time.

It would take some serious heat to cause such damage.

i do remember hearing something about big hp VL rb30's running 1/2 inch chev head studs?? might be worth the research. but definately take gtscott's advise and thoroughly check the block. it may be worth investing in a billet block if ur chasing those numbers.

Thank you for your replies.

I am running with 3.3 bars.

I don't know why the head is moving (Head lift: best translation)

My torque sequence is:

30 ft

55 ft

75 ft

125ft

I heard that HKS has special head gasket for 3 bars boost or more.

I think the problem is with head gasket, maybe I have to use another brand. (I am using Cometic head gasket)

Edited by Skyline-r

Maybe contact RIPSNZ and see what they use since they have a lot of experience with high HP RB2630s

http://www.ripsltd.com/index2.html. Their email is; [email protected]

my freind was running a VR4 block and was usnig nitrous with a cometic gasket and was starting the lift the head and seep through the gasket, they removed it and fitted a HKS unit i belive and was fine with no leaking i think they went a bit high settings on the head studs as well, but seemed to be the cometic gasket anway just what i saw might be the same if not the block being warped is a possiblity

<BR>May be the Nitto drag gasket or this type of cometic gasket <BR><A class=bbc_url title="External link" href="http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170265148970&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT" rel="nofollow external">http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWAX:IT</A><BR>
<BR><BR><BR>what is the different between this head gasket and Cometic normal gasket? is this comes with rings? (as per the picture) or it's special metal? Edited by Skyline-r

my freind was running a VR4 block and was usnig nitrous with a cometic gasket and was starting the lift the head and seep through the gasket, they removed it and fitted a HKS unit i belive and was fine with no leaking i think they went a bit high settings on the head studs as well, but seemed to be the cometic gasket anway just what i saw might be the same if not the block being warped is a possiblity

How much Horse power did he reach and boost?

Probably needs more zipties...

Srsly tho, give RIPS a call and ask what they do. He is a mega friendly dude and there is a good chance he will lend a hand. No doubt they have sen this or similar before

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys my 94 r33 gtst fuel pump has gone out. I have a walbro 525 ready to go in but am unsure if I need to upgrade the fuel tank bulk heads? Ive heard that others have issues with the stock wiring melting... Ive seen alot of people recommend this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-silvia-s14-s15-billet-fuel-tank-bulkhead-hat-top-an6-with-high-current-connector-apex-2-8-delphi-fpg-100?variant=42873255198898 My current pump that stopped working is aftermarket but I had no relay mod or upgraded connectors. Need some advice please. TIA
    • It’s new. It’s the cd009. I did take the transmission apart to mill down the bellhousing and had both housings come off the gears so wondering is something isn’t in right. I am running redline. I can get it in gear running too but it’s just not easier and it’s almost like 2, 4, 6, and reverse all the back gears aren’t happy going in
    • I’ll remember that as a last choice. It’s brand new
    • Got keys and did a walk around the yard planning the landscaping works with the family that I will be doing Main effort: remove all the woodchip in the gardens that are around (attached) to the outside of the house and replace with 10mm blue metal, having woodchip close to the house is a recipe for inviting white ants, currently there are no white ants within the block and I would like to keep it that way I'll be buying some large raised garden beds to grow veggies and stuff, and the woodchip will be mulched with everything else that gets dug up, pulled out, or cut down during works Next will some minor drainage and landscaping maintenance up one side of the house, where the fuse box, AC, and solar stuff will go, about 12 mtrs long by 2 meters wide, I'll break up the soil, add gypsum and then I'll dig in a French drains about 300mm deep x 300mm wide and fill it with agg pipe and blue metal, then level out the whole area with a 50mm layer of blue metal, the soil, whilst currently pretty compacted, will break up well with the gypsum to aid in drainage, I'll then cover the area with a 50mm layer of more blue metal In saying this, the drainage issue is minor, but that little hidden away area down the side is untidy and weedy, and as all of the main elec stuff is there I want it neat and tidy to appease my OCD Again, the material excavated from the French drains with be added to the garden bed mulch, as will some rose bushes and some other crap looking garden plants, and a old apricot tree that is looking worse for wear The apricot tree is currently in a little roundish garden bed that is in the middle of the back yard with few other crappy looking plants around it, that will all be removed, levelled, re-turfed, and is a perfect spot for a hills hoist There is also a area about 3m x 2m between the rear fence and shed that will get some attention, it looks like some stuff was stored there and the grass is dead, that will also get broken up and mulched, and is a prime spot for a pumpkin patch I've guestimated that I'll need: 3 tonnes of blue metal, 12 meters of agg pipe, 5kg of Gypsum, and a hills hoist, so a few bags of concrete as well to set it in place (the house currently has one of those pull out 4 line jobs, whilst it works, I want a retro old school hills hoist), I am also going to run some chickens, there's a great spot for a coop, so a chicken coop to suit 4 of those lovely egg laying bitches will also be on the job card That should keep me busy for a while, and will finish off the back yard ready for a early spring planting of some veggies and berries  Once the main effort is done I'll start out the front, there's a large rock garden that could use some TLC, but that is only minor works Should be fully moved in within 2 weeks, the landscaping works will start then Fun times, retirement is good  
    • It happens, that's what your single stage filler is used for.  If it is still visible after the 3 coats of 2k primer, it will be visible after the paint is laid down.  Its hard to give 100% perfect advice without being there in person, I'm very tempted to say stop where you are, fill your pin holes with a single stage putty first then keep going. 
×
×
  • Create New...