Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If someone laughs at you for not making massive KW's then they have a problem. I say do it for shits and giggles and at the same time you can find out what your car is actually making :D

If someone laughs at you for not making massive KW's then they have a problem. I say do it for shits and giggles and at the same time you can find out what your car is actually making :D

Who cares about power. I would laugh at him for owning an AU

OK..i have a big ugly caryard sticker on my rear windscreen its the chippy reflective vinal stuff :sick: .

I would like to remove it , im asking suggestions before i attempt this as i know it will get messy.

I was thinking of using Bug & Tar remover (worked wonders on the debadge.)

Please help.

Hair dryer / Heat gun awesome idea.

I did sort of try it but due to the type of vinal it chips off in vrey very small portions.

LOL.. This sucks may take a while :rolleyes:

Thanks for the help.

Stanley knife blade.

I know there's 8000 hicas threads but i think it's worthwhile to post a question on here rather than scour the abundance of info straight away. My hicas light on my dash has quickly flashed once on two separate driving occasions. I have no irregular steering symptoms but I have noticed both times it happened just after taking off (normal driving) and slight steering movements. The car was serviced on monday I figure it might be a bit of air in the system or something. Anyone got any ideas?

Hicas is not locked or bypassed all standard in that department. Will be happening soon though..

I know there's 8000 hicas threads but i think it's worthwhile to post a question on here rather than scour the abundance of info straight away. My hicas light on my dash has quickly flashed once on two separate driving occasions. I have no irregular steering symptoms but I have noticed both times it happened just after taking off (normal driving) and slight steering movements. The car was serviced on monday I figure it might be a bit of air in the system or something. Anyone got any ideas?

Hicas is not locked or bypassed all standard in that department. Will be happening soon though..

fluid sensor on ur powersteering. possibly needs a top up to cope with +ve g's

On another topic

Anyone wanna go to Burger Foundry?

Want to stab a dolphin in the face unless I get one of their tasty burgers....

save the dolphins. drive dohmar to burger foundry.

-D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...