Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Haha our old mate Ted180 .... times like this I wish I had taken up a mod position on HardTuned when offered .... but then again, policing that bunch of rabble would be a challenge :D

all the cheap and generic and even some of the jap ones fall into this category. but not all stainless mani's are junk. Mine's made from stainless steam pipe with 3mm wall thickness complete with merge collector and its strong as hell.

no doubt the wall thickness is what's saved you so far Simon.

Unfortunately, even with that sort of thickness, it's probably only a matter of time due to the constant stress on the metal during expansion and contraction (much higher rate of growth than cast).

Another reason why exhaust housings on turbos are all cast as opposed to S/S

all the cheap and generic and even some of the jap ones fall into this category. but not all stainless mani's are junk. Mine's made from stainless steam pipe with 3mm wall thickness complete with merge collector and its strong as hell.

It doesnt matter how thick it is, or how strong it is, the stainless turbo exhaust manifold is inferior for very basic reasons.

Stainless has a different material phase diagram that makes it more prone to cracking than an equivalent high nickel content iron. When you see OE manufacturers producing turbocharged engines with 304/316 stainless manifolds then you are onto something....until then....

The only Snap On tool I want is one of those cordless impact drills. And well, they're hugely expensive.

Nah, they're shit. We've killed nearly all ours at work, batteries dont like being recharged more than a few times :/

Hilti impact drivers are the way to go :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...