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bigmikespec
bigmikespec

Do you have a set of baffles in the tank Brad? What capacity is the tank? Looking at the D.E. or Verdi pump with an air/oil separator the design of the tank can be a lot simpler which owes itself to

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Risking Grand Master

Risking

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I have fitted up one of the high octane kits which a customer supplied me with.

I'd rather do my own personally.

A reasonable pump, moroso, peterson, barnes etc will set you back about $1200 delivered now.

A new Peterson tank $450-800

Breather tank $150

Balancer with drive mandrel $800-900

Pump pulley $88

Belt $20

Sump $550-700

Heaps of people making brackets now days. I machine my own and normally sell them for $440

I think that's just under $4500 for the parts roughly.

I use earls hose and fittings. I have a very good relationship with the guys there and only use their gear.

Retail you can expect to spend about $4500-5500 for everything related to plumbing it up depending what size and type of fittings you use.

If you can find someone who deals with earls or mscn ( motor sport connections) then chances are you can do it alot cheaper.

Nur33 Mentor

Nur33

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Something that's worth mentioning is putting Filter/screens on all your scavenger lines as a bit of extra security, because if you do have a engine failure the pump will suck up the metal into your $1000+ pump and fair chance it will die aswell. I have them on my dry sump set up Peterson make them.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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Something that's worth mentioning is putting Filter/screens on all your scavenger lines as a bit of extra security, ....

Damn good idea, even on a wet sump.

My sump designer knew this, but the engine builder didn't.....and I ended up with a broken bolt running on the oil pump gears.

Evocoop Collaborator

Evocoop

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Not being rude Mr Baron but I think it is hideous at $8k for what you get. It is convenient for a builder with more money and no knowledge or inclination to do it themselves but it is way out of most reach for most who don't want oiling problems.

That being said it is proven on the track!

This is exactly why I went the Hi octane kit first time around. Anything dry sumped up in Far north Qld was pretty much unheard of or restricted to big bore drag cars. I knew what I wanted but had nobody to help me out so the Hi octane kit was probably over priced for the parts you get but I had no other option and wasn't willing to gamble a new engine with something I had knocked up. I figure the price Hi octane charge is not that bad when you take into account the R and D that would have gone into it and I was happy to pay it on that basis alone. Plus the fact that I could bolt it on and know it was gonna work straight up was a selling point.

I have since helped out with mate's dry sump set ups. Just recently I've been helping build an Na SR20 set up from scratch for an Improved production 1200 coupe. I designed and milled the mounting brackets and helped with the sump from knowlage gained from my build.

I also got all my fittings from MSCN at wholesale prices which helped a heap. Did all the fuel system and oil system plumbing for under 3.5k.

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
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How do you determine what size tank to run? I've seen things in boots the size of a keg and ive also seen tanks in the engine bay maybe only 5" diameter, is it determined by pump flow or is there a formula to calculate or bigger is better? what?

  • 2 weeks later...
Risking Grand Master

Risking

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There is no science behind the tank that I'm aware of. Normally I'd make sure it's capacity is decent ( 7L minimum usually) and it's not too over kill.

I like Peterson tanks they have good baffling and oil control. Cheaper tanks tend to allow frothy oil to the bottom causing air in the pressure feed line. ( detectable with a clear hose temporaliy used during a dyno session.)

Most systems I do with a tank supplied by the owner I do a clear hose check on it. Just to be sure tank they bought works well. Do the same with any custom tanks I build

  • 1 month later...

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