Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i am getting my RB26 rebuilt

currently it has eagle rods in it with ARP 2000 rod bolts i was thinking of changing them to Manley rods as i like the machine work on them but what is everyone else using etc i keep heaing researching and some people dont like the eagles and others say they dont last long but heaps or people seem to have no issues.

i just dont want to have to pull rods out after say 100,000 kms because they are shitting them selfs, so what are you guys running / happy with them and prices etc?

Thanks

What power is the engine going to make, what revs etc.

Carillo rods....

Argo rods.

then eagle, spool, OEM rods with ARP fasteners.

I think it's been discussed numerous times. I'd do a search but the search function is broken.

I got Manley rods, new in box because they were cheaper at the time than Eagles. If you have Eagles new why not spend the money on something else? The engine life may depend more on machining, assembly balance, then eagle vs Manley, and the oil system, do you have a billet gear oil pump yet?

Yep the motor is getting a tomei oil pump its an R33 long drive crank

Looking at CP pistons

metal head gasket

head restrictor to 0.9

ported head

HKS 256 cams

springs and ti retainers

Proflow in sydney has the motor taken appart now and getting it ready for building and assembly etc has a Blitz KKK 660R turbo kit so just going to run what is safe for the tune i dont have specific power goal in mind just want it strong and reliable

just keep the normal RPM range 8k not real interested in reving the snot out of it

I think you'll be fine with the eagles. I wouldn't change them just for the sake of it. sure there are better rods. I'm not sure any aftermarket rod has a life of 100,000kms on a modified engine. more important will be how the engine is built, how it's tuned and then how it's maintained. that stuff will determine how long it lives. not the rod brand.

I know of a set of CP pistons to suit RB26 for sale right now, 86.5's, brand new in box with stickers etc - they're in Sydney, ready to go. Part number SC7310

They were delivered only today, not going 2.6 anymore...

$900 delivered to any Sydney postcode. PM me.

i currently have everything ready to go pumps on its way to the builders, but just read a few storys on the eagles they were in the motor and used for about 20,000kms but the previous builder did a shotty job and pistons and bore are shot hence the rebuild

I dont mind upgrading the rods and i was thinking of getting some kelford cams and sell the HKS ones but seeing the car is mainly street didnt know if it was worth it

I was looking at the Nitto rods or the Carrillo ones just dont know which way to go?

i was just looking at the nitto, spool, and looking up the argo ones now, the more i read the more i seem to get lost this car will be a daily drive most of the time not getting flogged and get serviced like a 2 dollar hooker

i have read about the Nitto but why would you say they are good in your opinion?

i know it sounds strange i guess its manily because i have researched so much and am a bit turned off by the eagles after so many people bagging them, and i heard they wont last 100,000kms but dont know for sure? seeing that it needs a rebuild i though i may as well change them now while its all apart?

I have heard good stuff on the nittos no bad stuff yet, and these build quality seems better than the eagles and i dont want to drive the car and have to strip it down after componets wear out :(

Well put it this way.

Stock rods would handle the power from that turbo (from what i can tell googling it). So aftermarket rods will hold fine mate.

As long as the tune is good, you use good rod bolts and aren't going to sky high RPM - realistically they aren't going to fail on you.

You've got more chance of a bearing spitting itself in 100,000km than you do of a rod going sideways.

Its hardly ever the parts that fail/wear out most times. Its how its all screwed together and the tuning.

You could put the best pistons and conrods in there and if its not built right or tuned right for that matter too, it will still suffer a premature failure/wear out.

Dont get so worried about the parts youve chosen. Just make sure your builder hones the big ends and small ends to suit desired bearing crush for big ends and pin to bore clearance for the small ends. Make sure they are balanced end to end as well.

So long as he does his job properly you wont have any issues.

Ignore most of the smack talk people say in forums about rods and pistons and the rest of that shit. Half the people have no idea anyway, its usually something they have heard from a mate, or what their mechanic has told them(who isnt their engine builder, though you will find the tuner will blame the engine builder and the builder will blame the tuner, unless they are one in the same). One person will have a bad experience, that expereince will have the cause incorrectly blamed on a certain part because of rumours, despite other people having success with that same part. Suddenly forums are filled with trash talk with no real evidence provided and then you will base your decision on this after reading said forum. And you will throw away hard earned money because you believed it.

Its just like tradies and their tools!

Keep and use the rods mate. Nothing wrong with them.

Thanks guys, keeping the rods they have ARP2000 rod bolts in them got custom order CP pistons to get the disired comp ratio the tuner wanted and its all put togeather now by Proflow in sydney, Just engine managment is taking care of it all for me and they have been given me 110% confidence in them so once the oil pump goes on its back to Jem to get reassembled :)

Thanks agian will try and put up a build thread if i can :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
    • Ah coolant overflow, previous discussions make way more sense now lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...