Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So what forum was that all posted on?

I've never seen such threads here stating such things.

Everyone knows 10-12psi MAX for long turbo life. Run more boost, expect it to die due to the ceramic rear wheel.

Compressor wheel makes no difference, simple as that really. Would have just been cheaper to produce. Wasn't a performance decision.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365907-r33-gtst-turbos/#findComment-5838617
Share on other sites

+1 ^

I ran 14psi on my stock turbo, but that's because I didn't intend on owning it for long. Upgraded the turbo after about 3 months. Never had an issue, but I wouldn't run that much boost and expect it to last for ever.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365907-r33-gtst-turbos/#findComment-5838627
Share on other sites

Ive seen it on a few threads from overseas. But apparently not true. So just out of curiosity why would u swap a 33 turbo onto a 20 when factory wastegate is set at 10 and they happily run at 11-12 ? Not having a dig just asking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365907-r33-gtst-turbos/#findComment-5838629
Share on other sites

Paul is right, i own a S1 33 and its alloy, Also i agree with the above comment about it being cost effecient to make the S2 nylon. Also i agree with Hanaldo, 10psi through two different turbos is not the same, one will flow better then the other to some extent, more psi does not mean more power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365907-r33-gtst-turbos/#findComment-5843792
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the best with it mate. Hopefully no dramas. I found quite a few issues when i pulled mine out eg fkt trans and engine mounts, throwout bearing, i had not been aware of, so 'any car maint' can be worthwhile it seems.
    • I think it's the alternator, there's some cracked shit going on with the rectifier. But so far, seems to be fine again? No sparks, no weird arcing when the leads went on. I ran this past a mate, he said he had similar issues before and his auto sparky replaced the alternator. All I know is, car works, car not on fire lol.
    • Brother-in-law's workshop. And I'll be doing. Family doesn't get priority over long running customer jobs. It wouldn't normally take so long to get to a task of mine, but there was a series of unfortunate events involving the dyno (blowing it up) that caused a serious backlog in the normal workload, that has toaken literally forever to get out from underneath. I can't do, or more to the point, choose not to do, jobs at home that require tools I don't have or would leave me without my daily if something goes wrong that thwarts me. Gearbox out on the floor with chassis stands is not palatable when I can use a hoist at the shop. But I've only had the box for a few weeks. It's the injectors and AFM that have been waiting on access to the dyno.
    • Thanks for mentioning it on the forums! Much appreciated Jen and I likely can't make it this weekend, but looking forward to see what you folks cook up in the future. Enjoy!
    • Welp, I have been driving it around (a bit) and messing with idle and return to idle characteristics. This is all well and good until I discovered my starter motor... is nearly dead. This is unfortunately after I booked my exhaust and tune in. This is the new section of my exhaust, after losing my mind with vbands and clamps. Yes I now have 4 mufflers. The two middle ones are 5in body 3in pipe round straight through mufflers or incorrectly named 'resonators' whatever you want to call. How does it sound? Muffled.   Car runs richer now in low load. Is it restriction? Or lack of exhaust leaks. I also figured out a way to make the Analog Readout match the serial WB Readout. All of this requires a car to you know.. *start* to tune the maths, which was not ideal when I needed it to get to the exhaust shop and back. It started when cold. 30 mins after the car got home, it was time to get stuck into it. Unfortunately this thing has no identifying marks on it at all. I contacted Mal Wood and asked if he could send me a replacement and he asked me to remove it because they've changed starters with their kits a few times over the years. I asked other companies with LH LS starter conversions and they all use different starters unique to their kits. I did find CAE performance supply Mal Wood - But they are out of stock for this starter for the next 3 weeks. The tune is booked for Friday 30th. Here's hoping the local starter motor repair place (which interestingly has a 5 star review from Trent @ Chequered) can get this rebuilt/sorted out so I can get it on and put the car on the dyno. Here's hoping!
×
×
  • Create New...