Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Not sure if this is the right section, couldnt find anywhere else.

Ive recently bought a stock as a rock gtt and am looking in the bov and exhaust market. My problem is that im finding it hard to know what sounds like what and how to find all the brands out there, im looking for a 3inch cat back that doesnt have that drone loud sound at low revs, im looking for a sporty sound that lets loose at high revs if that makes sense, much like a hks hi power silent. As for bovs i dont mind the hks ssqv but would like a slight flutter at high boost, (although if that is intended by the makers of the bov, i dont want any damage to the turbo, not sure if it exsists) but im not sure how to find what outs there besides aweful quality youtube videos and off topic google searches.

has anyone else had similar frustration or know any guides or videos?

any help would be much appreciated.

jarrad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365949-exhaust-and-bov-choices/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Stock ECU? If so forget about BOVs altogether unless you want to purposely cause all types of problems like engine stalling, engine damage etc.

oh really? what about plumb back??

what would an aftermarket ecu do to change that?

std bov is best

forget changin the bov, waste of money, sounds gay and usually makes the car stall or run like ass

exhuast get a good jap brand one

if you dont want droney just find some local members who have 34s and listen to theirs and see what exhausts they have

If you really want a bov you can have one, if you dont mind paying a few 100 for a noise then go for it but yeah in regards to the stalling and all that it is a bit of a hassle and only buy getting a full tune with a ecu the tuner can fix that.

If you want more of a bov sound, just get a cheapy pod... my bov noise got alot louder after that...

Also, I have never seen one for sale, but I vote momo course exhaust... came with my car from jap land, tuners have said how it has a nice rumble on idle with no drone on cruising, but gets pretty loud on wot.

honestly if you want a bov just get one. maybe start by getting a pod filter as that will make the factory bov much more audible. if that's not enough get a metal intake pipe (from pod to turbo inlet). both those mods actually have benefits apart from increasing the sound so at least you're not wasting money. if that's still not loud enough for you, then either remove the stock BOV and have nothing (lots of flutter noise on gear change) or buy your preferred trust/hks/blitz/arc/whatever bov and enjoy. don't expect many people here to understand why though, but I remember what I thought was cool when I was 18 so I won't bag you.....

Hmm fair enough might have to look down the track for that one.

Kakimoto exhausts sound pretty awesome from a few YouTube vids I watched.

Are there any others I should look up that anyone knows of??

Forget the BOV noise - just stick your head out the window and yell to impress the young chicks ;)

As for exhausts, in all honesty most are much of a muchness in what im suspecting is your price range.

Youy can pickup cheap 2nd hand items from the For Sale section for anywhere from 250-550.

Single muffler = louder/more dronge, thats about the major difference in the 3" range.

And the larger the tip out the cannon, the more drone also.

Hmm alright thanks Richard I'll try the pod. Ive heard there's a way to keep them legal, do you know how??

Haha its not for impressing chicks, i already got one of them haha. I just like them.

Price range is Around 1000-1200.

Oh ok I didn't know that about the drone. So I'm aiming for a 3 or 3.5 inch tip or a dual/oval.

I just thought because he said it's rare tree wouldn't be many.

Thanks alot for all your advice guys!! Appreciate it heaps

Hmm alright thanks Richard I'll try the pod. Ive heard there's a way to keep them legal, do you know how??

Haha its not for impressing chicks, i already got one of them haha. I just like them.

Price range is Around 1000-1200.

Oh ok I didn't know that about the drone. So I'm aiming for a 3 or 3.5 inch tip or a dual/oval.

I just thought because he said it's rare tree wouldn't be many.

Thanks alot for all your advice guys!! Appreciate it heaps

Box the pod otherwise defect within seconds

or even try the Blitz exhausts they seem to be alright, plus i believe you can get them from Just Jap

JASMA exhausts generally don't drone, they are usually well made, give performance increases, and above all, are supposed to conform to Japanese noise laws, which AFAIK aren't far from ours.

Quote: "Japanese Automotive Sports Muffler Association (JASMA). JASMA certified exhaust systems meet strict standards for passing car inspections."

ive always thought about getting a bov so i could drive past a V8 sat at the lights and scare the crap outa them, lol, isnt that what there for??? lol

I second the HKS exhaust, they sound filfth, quiet idle, no droning, and nasty when the throttle goes down, sweet...sounds like the cars possessed in a good way..well the one i heard anyway..

I guess its down to personal taste, i can remember sitting at the drags with a v8 starting up next to me wishing i had a louder exhaust etc, but then on the street wish it was a bit quieter on an idle, cost too much for those bovs though when you could spend it on some cams or somthing else... just my 2 cents..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...