Jump to content
SAU Community

What Could Be Wrong?

MattyFlynn

By MattyFlynn,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

MattyFlynn Community Regular

MattyFlynn

Posted
Posted

Hey I've got a prob and I'm hoping one of you's will know how to fix it.

It doesn't happen all the time but sumtimes when my car is still kinda cold it won't boost, it started doin it after I changed the oil so I was thinking it might have sumthing to do with that?

Any help would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367387-what-could-be-wrong/
Share on other sites
MattyFlynn Community Regular

MattyFlynn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'll have a look and see if There's any loose tubes today.

I warm the car up for like 15mins before I drive it, thought that'll be enough?

Btw, if it's not boosting, if I turn the car off and then back on itwill start to boost again. Its weird man lol

Cassbo Grand Master

Cassbo

Posted
Posted

Thanks for ur help, galois u calling me a retard? Be sure to say it to my face at the next meet up.

lol, I think you are taking the term "retard" out of context...

Rich - More fuel is thrown into the engine to lower the air to fuel ratio

Retard - Ignition timing is changed so that fuel ignition happens later

What does this mean? I'm no mechanic but my understanding is that the ECU thinks the engine may be experiencing something that may cause damage to the engine and is actively trying to protect it.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hahahahaha that's hilarious, when I saw the preview in my email I'm like "wtf did I say to this guy?!". Not laughing at you mate, I've read the term "rich and retard" so many times and never once like that hahaha.

No need to get aggressive on the forums though mate, it's all just good fun. If you stick round long enough you'll probably get a lot more shit than that for doing absolutely nothing, some people just love the excuse of being anonymous to abuse people.

I'll elaborate a bit more, but I'm FAR from an expert.

The r33's seem to hit rich and retard, where the engine goes into safety mode, easily when the engine has some extra boost added. The boost level seems to change depending on the car (and weather etc, cold dense air often triggers it), and no idea why but most of the posts I've read have it happening on r33's.

Maybe have a search for rich and retard or low boost or something? It comes up fairly regularly on sau. That's assuming it's an ecu cut issue.

Take it easy though, don't thrash it till you've got it figured out or something might go pop.

Edited by Galois
MattyFlynn Community Regular

MattyFlynn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea I thought u were taking the piss outa me lol

But yea there's afew keyboard heroes out there :|

Well like I said I might take it to uni group when I get chance, it's due for a retune anyways... Last place I took it too f**ked it and it pings here and there on high boost :/

Till than tho I'll be running it on low boost.

Btw it only does that boost cut thing when it's a really cold morning so it might be as u said. But yea it's only done it twice on me in the past month so i dunno.

Honestly thanks for ur info, I'll search the forums for abit regarding rich and retard after work.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yea I thought u were taking the piss outa me lol

But yea there's afew keyboard heroes out there :|

Well like I said I might take it to uni group when I get chance, it's due for a retune anyways... Last place I took it too f**ked it and it pings here and there on high boost :/

Till than tho I'll be running it on low boost.

Btw it only does that boost cut thing when it's a really cold morning so it might be as u said. But yea it's only done it twice on me in the past month so i dunno.

Honestly thanks for ur info, I'll search the forums for abit regarding rich and retard after work.

You're not kidding there mate *shakes head*

Let us know how it goes, good tuner's seem to solve all the problems :D

Good luck!

Edited by Galois
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Cold mornings mean the motor will be running quite rich untill it is properly warm, It would be miss firing because it cant burn the all the fuel.

How long since you have changed the plugs, they are probably starting to foul up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • sonicii
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • GTSBoy
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • GTSBoy
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...