Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts



www.durafix.com

Discuss!


p.s. I barely got half way through the vid and I skipped ahead to eBay and bought a pack of 20!

p.p.s. if anyone is concerned about strength, there's another video when a guy has welded 10mm plates of ally together at right angles, smacks one side with a hammer and the ally begins to bend before the weld fails!

p.p.p.s. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270768970566&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_3105wt_1139
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368666-durafix-easy-weld/
Share on other sites

Looks handy to have around, but its around $50 for 40 rods and you need an oxy.

i'd love to try it for rim repairs though

See that eBay link? $11 US for approx 10 rods... Looks like one does a fair bit too...

You don't need an oxy set-up, just a butane torch...

Pretty fkn awsome if it holds up as well as it looks...

Ha ha... I wanna see someone 'solder' up a cooler pipe work set up-

I've bought some for the sole purpose to re-doing my intercooler piping and making an airbox, so I'll update in this thread how I go!

Edited by StealthX

this stuff has been around for yrs i saw a display at a car show over 20 yrs ago i was pretty impressed then . ive never used it but i can see it would be handy to have a few rods in the workshop.

  • 3 months later...

I used this stuff to make up an intake for my car. Turned out OK, considering I have no experience with welding etc.

I used a LPG gas bottle from my bar-b-q, with an appropiate nozzle, to heat up the material. One thing to remember, if you are making something with a few separate parts (like I did), when you heat it up again to stick the new bit on, there's a big chance the original "weld" will start to run. To help with this problem I bought a block of modelling clay and pushed some around the first bit/s to act like a heat sink.

post-76144-0-30043900-1318242557_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

anyone know if they have something similar for steel?

i've got a stick welder and we're trying to modify a pocket bike exhaust onto a motorised push bike (using the band expander)

the cheap chinese steel is so thin that its got a few holes in it

just want something solder like that will work like this does

  • 2 weeks later...

They usually have a stand at farm machinery days and will weld up any alloy part you bring in to get done. They are very good at it and make it look very easy. I've tried it in different things and it works OK, but I found that using the normal commercially available alloy brazing flux and 10% mag rods is about the same. This was using a Dillon/Henrob oxy.

anyone know if they have something similar for steel?

i've got a stick welder and we're trying to modify a pocket bike exhaust onto a motorised push bike (using the band expander)

the cheap chinese steel is so thin that its got a few holes in it

just want something solder like that will work like this does

Chinese metal for things like your talking about is usually terrible stuff to play with. Its usually recycled tseel with inclusions all through it. And then you say it is an exhaust pipe or some such - double whammy. Nothing like exhaust pipe for dirt and crap in the metal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea I could, but it is amusing how shit a stock seat and belt are
    • Just to be clear, there were no lights or codes when the hiccups were occurring. Also nothing noticeable in the cars' braking. It brakes fine and the dash is clear. I only made the connection when it did throw a code and suddenly, despite the lights, it felt great again. 
    • Yeah they are sliders and this was in my head before I worked out it was the speed sensor.
    • Ok so we have a smoking gun.  A few weeks ago I had to replace a speed sensor that I'd fit incorrectly. I replaced the sensor and everything was fine with no lights or codes thrown any longer.  When I was doing some more bedding in yesterday I got ABS and traction control lights again and, considering when this happens those things are disabled, the pedal went back to normal with smooth braking and no hiccups.  The codes thrown are for the same speed sensor that I replaced. When I looked at the sensor I took out it looks like the tip of the sensor is damaged. So whatever happened to it, perhaps it has damaged the magnetic ring on the bearing (that I only replaced the other week). I'll get my boroscope in the hole where the sensor goes and see if there is any damage in there. Hopefully just the tip of the sensor is in there and the bearing is fine. 🤞🏻  It's worth noting also that the pedal hiccup happens more often and for longer periods now and totally goes away when the codes are thrown again which happens usually after 5 or so minutes of driving. Love all your help here as usual guys, thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...