Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was definitely reeling the other cars in but they had me by 3 car lengths out of the hole.

Just tossing up between the .82 and the .63 rear housings as every other way around the problem involves making the car less drivable on the street. (other than going 3.5L :whistling: ) I really don't want to go to a 4k stall converter.

You might get away with a 0.63 using pineapple juice. It would be waaay more lively and it seems that you have maxed out the compressor anyway.

Even if you drop a few kw at the top end it would be a much faster car all around.

I ended up with a 13.9 but was going 141.3kph by 1/8th mile after the 2.8 second 60 foot. Only one timeslip as the tards lost the first one somehow. Thats .4sec worse than the last run, back on the highflow with 250kw, speed cut and throttle restriction. Power doesn't make it quicker unless you can launch it unfortunately.

First run was only a couple of hundredths quicker IIRC.

Just tossing up between the .82 and the .63 rear housings as every other way around the problem involves making the car less drivable on the street. (other than going 3.5L :whistling: ) I really don't want to go to a 4k stall converter.

.82 would be perfect IMO

Whilst I agree with Wolverine, I reckon the .63 would make it a bit too much on the road.

It's a very, very well behaved (and quick) road car as is, it'd be a shame to see those manners disappear in the name of a good 1/4 mile time.

Edited by iamhe77

I am getting prices as we speak, Tial housings are bloody expensive but I only need the housing, not the clamps. Price with clamps is $670 delivered. >_<

There are Tial knockoff .82 rears on ebay for $289 delivered, perhaps I should get another one of them seeing as I modified the one I already bought. The quality is great.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270940066206?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1907wt_1159

The safe option is the 0.82 but I think you could get away with a 0.63 and not find it a choke point with that compressor using E85.

At that price for the Tial knockoffs it is a shame you don't have an easy peasy high mount manifold with V-bands so you could swap the housings quickly.

I cut it up to modify it but I need another turbo to jig it up, then the exhaust/wastegate would have to be redone. I just want to bolt a rear on this kit for now so I will have to buy another.

If I could take off at good boost he wouldn't have had a chance. Next time... :P

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I was down at Edge tuning again today after sorting out the boost control circuit and fitting the lower temp thermostat. It was also a good chance to change fuels to United e90 as there is one local now but the extra torque put an end to any fun I was expecting.

3rd gear runs saw the torque converter lockup clutch slipping badly, that and we couldn't work out how to get rid the speed cut with the Fcon for 4th to be very useful. It looks like I will have to upgrade the stall converter again and refit the SLD.

As it was, with 4th gear runs to around 5k it was comfortably hitting 300kw at 25psi (flat finally) If I can get the SLD re-installed I may be able to sneak a tune in this weekend. :whistling:

I'm bloody amazed, as is Cihan that this little 2.5 just keeps taking more...

Considering the torque output Cihan feels it is doing very well. Not that many engines would be taking the abuse this one has, its done literally 300 dyno power runs and lasted 3 years powered up with over 3 bar of boost at times. I'm quite impressed.

I don't have a choice smashing limiter, it happens all the time due to the stupid auto failing to shift in time. At least pinking is a thing of the past...

Still running the 1.06 Tial mate, looking to crack 350kw this time so I will need it.

Its a Dominator custom stall converter, it flares to around 3k when stopped but flares to 4k once boost kicks in (as the revs they stall to is largely torque dependent) The issue is the lockup clutch is too small though, not the stator itself as its a 5 axis billet unit and should be bullet proof.

Not sure yet if I should get another converter made or just cut this one up and get more clutch plates fitted...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...