Jump to content
SAU Community

Forged Rb20

N1 RB26

By N1 RB26,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

Could easily be original.

My old engine only recently came out, had never been apart or out in it's life. Not even a head gasket. I've raced the shit out of it for the last 3 years, someone else did before me, and who knows what it did before that since 1989....

Engine still had bore hone marks. Only thing that killed it was a big end failure..... I did a session of 30+ flat out laps in a Qld summer dicing with Group A cars, without an oil cooler. No doubt in my mind the oil would have been so thin it simply lost it's ability to lube.

  • Replies 209
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Driftnuttz Enthusiast

Driftnuttz

Posted
Posted

Yeah maybe, but from what I have seen they would not look this good. I mean they really look as if the hone was just done. I moved the pistons side to side and there was little to no movement. The big end looks good too, so with a gasket kit and arp head studs it should be a nice motor.

Driftnuttz Enthusiast

Driftnuttz

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can make it flow more and still keep the air speeds up, like I said I am not just going to make the ports as big as I can. The good head builders here in the states do it all the time. Thats how you make the best power with a usable power band.

I have never seen a motor here with lots of miles and failing rings look so good. Most of the time they are real faint if visable at all. Really though it doesnt matter as I was not planning on reringing it unless the cylynder walls were messes up. No scares or scraps and plenty of hone left. Arps and a oem gasket kit and I think I am golden. The big end looks good too.

Anyone know if a oem gasket kit comes with a waterpump gasket? I have a new pump but no gasket with it.

Edited by Driftnuttz
N1 RB26 Contributor

N1 RB26

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well everyone was bagging the hell out of the 20 cause you cant get decent power with out spending endless amounts of money but it seems the RB24 isn't as bad as everyone seems to think and not as expensive as well considering people have been able to build these for 5-6k and brings on a turbo quicker than a 25

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Fair enough, but a fairer comparison would be a rb20 dyno sheet then the same car with the bottom end swap rather than someone sliding around and kicking the clutch to make smoke.

Smoke isn't a fair indicator of power. :)

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

well everyone was bagging the hell out of the 20 cause you cant get decent power with out spending endless amounts of money

No, pretty sure they weren't. People were saying that spending the money in the right places made more sense than rebuilding / forging a motor that is already reliable and can make decent power up to a point.

but it seems the RB24 isn't as bad as everyone seems to think and not as expensive as well considering people have been able to build these for 5-6k and brings on a turbo quicker than a 25

No one said the 24 was bad, there are a few on here before who have already built them, with threads on results. The point was for the same 5-6K you can have a built 2.5 or 3lt with a lot more drive-ability and potential. Bringing the turbo on quicker is irrelevant...what turbo, what engine? GT40 on a 2lt vs a 2530? Right turbo matched to the right motor for the right job.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

got a bit of "fulleh sic uleh" in that video.

What a wanker though.

I could make a commodore smoke like that.

Good luck with your "I'm a special kid" RB20 projects. When your wallets are empty, and you're crying because stock RB25s and RB2530s are lapping you, I'm going ot laugh my ass off.

N1 RB26 Contributor

N1 RB26

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Bringing the turbo on quicker is irrelevant...what turbo, what engine? GT40 on a 2lt vs a 2530? Right turbo matched to the right motor for the right job.

from what i gathered maybe wrong and talking to people but wouldn't a RB24 bring on a turbo quicker than the 25 if both ran the same turbo? cause of the head isn't that the point of 25 head on a 30 bottom to make it more responsive? cause a 24 for would be forcing a similar amount of exhaust gas out as a 25 but through a smaller port there for increasing the velocity which the exhaust gas comes out...or am i way off?

Good luck with your "I'm a special kid" RB20 projects. When your wallets are empty, and you're crying because stock RB25s and RB2530s are lapping you, I'm going ot laugh my ass off.

haha couldn't see that happening as from what i've heard Roy's standard 20 can easily keep up with the "big boys" out on the track so much more a 24 could and i'm doing the 24 as a side project as a bit of fun and doing bolt ons for the standard motor i'm putting in atm and i'm not fussed bout 25's lapping me (if they can) it's all for fun and if you don't have fun with it then what's the point of doing it :thumbsup:

Edited by Forged R32
N1 RB26 Contributor

N1 RB26

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah realise that but with slight port you could get them up to speed surely...??

Can anyone post up links to 24 builds can't seem to find them my eyes must be painted on lol

and has anyone on here done a rb24 ? Can you post setups and dyno figures and what kind of response driveability?

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

Yeah realise that but with slight port you could get them up to speed surely...??

Can anyone post up links to 24 builds can't seem to find them my eyes must be painted on lol

and has anyone on here done a rb24 ? Can you post setups and dyno figures and what kind of response driveability?

That is the whole point, porting a head usually decreases velocity and makes it worse down low.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...