Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys,

anyone here ever buy from this ebay seller?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-350Z-3-5-V6-RDA-FULL-SET-ROTORS-SLOTTED-/160588180772?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2563cd2d24#ht_1106wt_1037

is the price OK for 4 discs or do you think i need to shop around a bit more? any suggestion on where else to look?

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

guys,

anyone here ever buy from this ebay seller?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-350Z-3-5-V6-RDA-FULL-SET-ROTORS-SLOTTED-/160588180772?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2563cd2d24#ht_1106wt_1037

is the price OK for 4 discs or do you think i need to shop around a bit more? any suggestion on where else to look?

If they are that's quite cheap :)

  • 2 months later...

How much should i expect to pay for a new turbo fitted? (something equivalent to stock?)

Im finding thats the problem with the warranty's they require frequent services by certified mechanics.

Does anyone know the details of the standard mandatory dealer warranty in australia is it 3months?

Dealers have a stat warranty on Cars under 10 years old of 3 months / 5000kms. That will cover everything on the car that goes wrong in that period as I understand it.

Dealers can offer extra warranty that is offered by a 3rd party warranty company. This can be for various amount of time/kms. Generally this cover will state it will cover damage to the drivetrain upto a total of $XXXX.

So an example. You buy a car and you have bought or the dealer gave you a 1 year 3rd party warranty. 6 months in, you having had the car serviced as required by the dealer, blow up the turbo. The 3rd party warranty will cover the claim up to $2000 (just say). The job will cost $3000, so you will pay the gap.

Thats how I understand it works.

some of the guys that have replaced turbos will be able to give you a cost.

I would quote you under two grand for the highflow turbo fitted, well down on the 3 or 4k it used to cost. (and what a mechanic would probably still charge.)

There is no guarantee you will get what you want with the warranty, most probably they would try and source a second hand turbo, and you would be in the same boat again down the track.

What Pn-mad said. Dealer/ broker whoever sold you the car ( not private sale) has to give you the 3months 5k stat warranty if under 10 years old and fix the issue repair. Otherwise they can take back the car and refund you in full. If not you can get Aca involved running a program that will call the dealer direct within 5 days and sort. If no comply then go to vcat. Claim under 9,999.00 and they can't get legal representation. His word against yours.

PS Scotty your offer sounds bloody good!

PS Scotty your offer sounds bloody good!

Tell me about it, between the cost Stao is supplying rebuilt turbo's at, and the speed I can change a turbo in now, you would be mad to purchase their dodgy warranty. Mine wasn't worth the paper it was written on...

I would quote you under two grand for the highflow turbo fitted, well down on the 3 or 4k it used to cost. (and what a mechanic would probably still charge.)

Ive still got the invoice the previous owner of my car paid for the highflow and refit of the turbo on my car; to the tune of $4800 or there abouts

Faaark. Mine cost just under $2k installed back when it was done... I didn't get a say regarding the internals (not that I would have known anything about it back then

I think they took the engine out the hard way and just generally didnt know how to best approach it, likely wasted heaaaaaps of time. Just glad it wasnt me that had to foot that bill!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...