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What state? In SA for example, little more than having the R33 brakes would be required to meet the law's wants and needs.

I'm doing this right now. How much it costs depends on how much you can do yourself, how much extra work you do (as in, timing belt, water pump, rear and/or front main seals, water hoses, etc etc etc, that are all easier to do with the engine on a stand but add a big bunch of $$ to the conversion cost). And whether you get an auto or manual engine (vs whatever you have right now) and whether you get an R33 motor or an R34 Neo (and therefore exactly how many loom plugs on the motor need to be rewired to make the conversion look and work nice), and whether you take the oportunity to delete all the HICAS shit from the car, including getting a non-HICAS rear subframe because HICAS lock bars are not actually legal (as they constitute a modification of the steering system and would need to be engineered at the minimum), and whether you need simple little things like new gearbox mounts. You need at least the front section of tailshaft to suit the 25 gearbox, and I think it has to be cut'n'shut and balanced. You need someone to sort out a cable speedo drive conversion. You should consider a 4.11 diff instead of the 4.3 which is a tad short for an RB25 in a lighter car like a 32.

RB25 and gearbox is anything from $2k or so for a cheapy S1 to $4k or so (or less if you screw people down) for a Neo. Brakes are anything from $300 to $1000 depending on supply and demand and whether you use new rotors, lines and pads. So your basics range from $3k to $5k without all the possible stuff I listed above.

I'm doing it with a lot of mates rates input and it's still costing quite a lot - largely because I'm doing all the optional stuff to make it a 100,000km trouble free prospect instead of a drop in and pray conversion, plus all the desirable things like the diff, HICAS delete, etc.

If you have to do engineering because you're in some other state, then I have no idea.

you mean modifications to the r32 tail shaft to suit rb25 gearbox . if your r32 was origionally auto the crossmember fits straight up . before starting your going to need to speak to an engineer that will pass the car for the modifications (he should know what needs to be done to pass vic roads) i'm pretty sure you will have a heap of paperwork to fill out before you start too.

this link may help , buut it does raise the question as to what category you need to be under due to the fact that r32 came out with an rb25de , my question would be , do you have to get the turbo and accesories engineer approved or the whole lot?

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/PermitsModificationsAndDefects/Modifications/NotifyingVicRoadsOfChangesAndModifications.htm

Victoria costs around $650-800

you must talk to the VASS signatory/engineer first. You might findbrake upgrades and other things are required.

Use Enkelman in Braeside, I've used them as have many others i know. On the ball and reasonably priced compared to other VASS engineers (there is no set price).

I wouldnt imagine it been cheap to have it legal, plus you'll prob still get defected even if it is enginered.

Ring around and see who will engineer it and how much.

I would assume a brake upgrade at a min will be required.

So if your keeping the engine stock whats the point in the conversion? I cant really see having a little bit of extra torque been worth all the hassle not to mention the $$$. It would be easier to mod the 20 and have some decent power and still have it look standard. Just my 2 cents :action-smiley-069:

So if your keeping the engine stock whats the point in the conversion? I cant really see having a little bit of extra torque been worth all the hassle not to mention the $. It would be easier to mod the 20 and have some decent power and still have it look standard. Just my 2 cents

Any money spent inside an RB20 is wasted money. Any modification made to an RB20 to make more power will only make it spend more time labouring with zero torque before it comes on boost followed by instant wheelspin because of the nothing to everything transition. It's not the power potential of the RB25 that makes the conversion worth doing. It's the off boost drivability. You'd even expect to use less fuel with a 25 in a 32.

Edited by GTSBoy

"So if your keeping the engine stock whats the point in the conversion? I cant really see having a little bit of extra torque been worth all the hassle not to mention the $$$. It would be easier to mod the 20 and have some decent power and still have it look standard. Just my 2 cents :action-smiley-069: "

Well any mods if defectable depending on what the guy at the other end think. But having a stock engine trying to pass is a much better chance than one with a big turbo sticking on it side. Can alwasy mod it later when everything up and running.

If your gonna mod the 25 then yea ofcourse it'll be better.

You can mod any engine without if been defectable, there is no way a cop can defect you for a highflow of your standard turbo, same with ecu just get nistune and its still the factory ecu.

I just think if your going to the extreme of getting a stock motor engineered you might as well try get it engineered with some more power while your there.

If getting it engieered is going to cost say 2k on top of the engine conversion + gearbox + tailshaft + wiring you could have more power, less hassles and save alot of $$$ with a 20.

Stock 25 will be 130-140rwkw? A midly modded 20 with a not to laggy setup will have 170-180rwkw with stock injectors and afm, will cost 2k max. Even the stock turbo is good for 140rwkw and they are far from laggy.

Edited by eightsixboy

Any money spent inside an RB20 is wasted money. Any modification made to an RB20 to make more power will only make it spend more time labouring with zero torque before it comes on boost followed by instant wheelspin because of the nothing to everything transition. It's not the power potential of the RB25 that makes the conversion worth doing. It's the off boost drivability. You'd even expect to use less fuel with a 25 in a 32.

I'm not sure what 20's you've been driving but my current setup is on par with what i had in my 34, similar power and power delivery, feels quicker and prob is due to a lighter car. Even my mate who is not into skylines at all thought the 34 was to laggy and that was just a highflow.

It all depends on how well the 20 is setup, people tend to put turbos that are to big on thats the main prob, a 25 highflow for example is way to big for a 20 yet people still do it, yet a 2530 will have way less lag and make similar power.

The main difference is the power levels, a 25 with the same lag as say a 20 will make alot more power, a 2530 powered 20 is like a 3076 powered 25, 230rwkw vs 260rwkw+.

Just a note engineering/mod plate in Qld is between $100-$150 last time I got it done. Don't know why its so expensive down there.

If it were that easy down here I would wack a 25 in mine and get it done.

I think at a min its $600-800 just to do the cert, even then they might not pass the car. There pretty strict about that stuff, I'm surprised its so cheap in QLD.

I would guestimate it would cost all up around 3.5-5k to get it done properly.

Engine $1000-1500

Gearbox $800-1000

Tailshaft $300-500

Cert$800

Plus whatevers needed for the cert, might need bigger brakes. Not to mention sorting out the wiring and ecu and making it epa friendly.

If your gonna mod the 25 then yea ofcourse it'll be better.

You can mod any engine without if been defectable, there is no way a cop can defect you for a highflow of your standard turbo, same with ecu just get nistune and its still the factory ecu.

I just think if your going to the extreme of getting a stock motor engineered you might as well try get it engineered with some more power while your there.

If getting it engieered is going to cost say 2k on top of the engine conversion + gearbox + tailshaft + wiring you could have more power, less hassles and save alot of $$$ with a 20.

Stock 25 will be 130-140rwkw? A midly modded 20 with a not to laggy setup will have 170-180rwkw with stock injectors and afm, will cost 2k max. Even the stock turbo is good for 140rwkw and they are far from laggy.

You can't engineer with power mod, they don't go on the cert as that requires EPA/ADR testing.

To make it simple... VASS Engineers cert only covers mechanical

So makes perfect sense to go in with a near stock motor if possible as they check emissions but only in a way that ensures you meet the acceptable/compliant levels. It's does not mean power mods are legal in the EPA eye.

In SA it cost $140 for a full road worth inspection (basically what happens when you get defected), had to have R33 brakes to pass and everything 'stock', though I had a highflow, gtr injectors, z32, nistune, catch can plummed back in and passed second time, failed for bushes and worn hicas rods first time.

I also had to have an idle emissions test, but I just got workshop it make it up and write it on a piece of paper.

As a result of passing I got a signed letter saying 'exemption to modificattion' stating I had an engine swap and passed regency. Basically helps get out of defects if you show it to cops.

Edited by Rolls

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