Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just installed a JJR pro stealth intercooler and 100cpi cat on my 33 gtst. Car was running perfect before these mods but now when I put the foot down I boost up until about 4000rpm and then the car feels like it just looses oomph for the rest of the rev range.

It's not the most noticeable feeling (mostly for passengers) but I can definitely notice it's loosing power. I also don't know wether it's me but it also sounds like the car makes a different noise when I hit this spot in the rev range.

I have racked my brain trying to think off possibilities such as slipping clutch but the revs don't suddenly climb when I start to loose power. Coilpacks have recently been upgraded too as it was missfiring bad around this spot in the revs previously so I don't think it is the coilpacks.

Other mods on the car include HKS silent power exhaust, pod and manual boost controller set to 9psi.

Any ideas guys? Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/
Share on other sites

I have checked all hose clamps that go from turbo to intercooler and to engine and they are all fine. Checked the hoses to boost controller and they are all fine. It seems to happen at about 7psi when the problem occurs. Any other hoses I should check?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5903559
Share on other sites

Yea 7 psi is what the standard boost solenoid on the car delivers to the wastegate above I think 5000rpm but I have bypassed that with a turbotech boost tee and have been running on 9psi for a couple of months now no dramas until I installed the intercooler and cat yesterday. So I believe it's not the ecu. (I hope any way cos I'm a little strapped for cash lol)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5903575
Share on other sites

its very possible that now you have installed the highflow cat letting the engine breath easier and reaching higher load points in the ecu causing rich and retard,

try backing the boost right down to 7 and see if the issue is still there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5903692
Share on other sites

You are probably pushing the limits of the stock map and it is richening up and retarding the mixture, take the boost controller off and see if it fixes it, if it does then you need a remap or aftermarket ECU, if it is still broken must be an air leak or something somewhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5903810
Share on other sites

Ok I'll try running standard boost tomorrow and see if that fixes it. Cheers guys

Not juist standard boost maybe even less - you will be flowing more air at the same boost levels - you may be the victim of your success - time for a Nistune or other ecu.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5904843
Share on other sites

Ok it seems the car likes 5psi and that's it. Any higher and it hits r&r. Bit of a bummer really cos there is no one in my area who can tune my car. How do I go about getting a Nistune as I have heard they don't like r33's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5905141
Share on other sites

How do I go about getting a Nistune as I have heard they don't like r33's?

Nistune doesn't work with R33 ECUs (last time I read about it anyway...), most people's recommendations seem to be either get a R32 GTS-T ECU + separate controller for VCT (or what ever it is called) or a Z32 ECU & nistune that.

Are you going to mod the car further in terms of power? As in different turbo (or highflow stock one) + all the supporting mods?

If not, you can get away by just using a piggy back interceptor unit like the SAFC 2 to get rid of the R&R when you set the boost to 10 - 12 psi.

This is what I have got in my car atm & it works fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5905286
Share on other sites

I'm planning on highflowing the turbo in 6 month+ depending on when I get posted back up to qld (army). My plan is to get about 250rwkw so I'd say a nistune would be the way to go. I'm located about 3 1/2 hours away from Melbourne so it's a bit of a hassle to get my car tuned as of now unless there is a tuner closer to Albury that I am not aware of

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5905556
Share on other sites

I'm planning on highflowing the turbo in 6 month+ depending on when I get posted back up to qld (army). My plan is to get about 250rwkw so I'd say a nistune would be the way to go.

In that case, yeah go for a full aftermarket ECU solution such as Nistune or PFC.

Edited by Mayuri Krab
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5905607
Share on other sites

Ok update. The car misfired once last night at about 4500rpm and again this afternoon at about the same revs so could the problem I'm having be related to the coilpacks? The coilpacks I originally put in the car where out of my n/a r33 so maybe they are beginning to fail? This is running about 8-9psi of boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5908162
Share on other sites

+1 for plugs, also check on how they are gapped and the heat range etc.

Look at all of the basic stuff before spending time and money on something that may or may not solve the issue.

I'm having issues as well because of the colder weather, however turning the boost down seems to have done the trick. I'm thinking my iridum plugs aren't liking the colder weather.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5908260
Share on other sites

You are running rich. since installing these mods more air is going into the engine and it responds by dumping fuel in. your plugs are fouling from the rich fuel mixture. You need an aftermarket ecu or find a boost level which works right which may be lower than stock but I don't know if this is possible as the actuator is 7psi so you can't really go lower. Get a power fc and tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5908263
Share on other sites

I never thought of the plugs. Didn't think it would happen so suddenly if it was the plugs and the car was running fine until the intercooler and cat were installed. I'll check the plugs tho as I suspect they might have some age about them lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5908269
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...