Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol nah she spent $1k on me i think thats enough.

ill do sway bars eventually but as ive made a dramatic improvement over the previous suspension ive had, i think ill just get used to these first..

Lol dude, was just stirring; anytime you're ready.:thumbsup: They'll make a nice amount of difference, especially since your shocks were fairly stuffed to begin with.

  • 1 month later...

So is it 2x3mm washers that are required on each coilover? Does it matter what they are made of?

Pm me your address; I'll post some to you. I has a shite load of them.

Sorry I should really keep all of the questions/info here.. What is involved with the rear spring removal in the M35? can you just take the outer bolt out of the "lower spring mount" and that is enough to drop the spring out or is there more to it?

Sorry I should really keep all of the questions/info here.. What is involved with the rear spring removal in the M35? can you just take the outer bolt out of the "lower spring mount" and that is enough to drop the spring out or is there more to it?

As Dale once said..

To remove the STD rear spring it is easier to undo the inner mount for the lower arm (one with the spring seat) and lower the whole arm supported with a jack. Mark the eccentric bolt on the lower arm before removal. You'll be aligning once you're done; but at least you're no worse off. The STD spring is very long and you won't be able to swing the arm far enough down to remove the spring from the seat.

I thought you said you'd sussed it out already :P

Is anyone finding that they need to set the rear passenger spring lower than the drivers rear to get the back of the car level?

I'm using Tanabe and the rear passenger side needs the spring adjusted lower to try and level the car out. Now it's to the point where I lower the rear passenger but when the car has settled it hasn't changed the height of the car. I'm lost as I can't work out why that corner won't come down even though I'm lowering the spring.

Is anyone finding that they need to set the rear passenger spring lower than the drivers rear to get the back of the car level?

I'm using Tanabe and the rear passenger side needs the spring adjusted lower to try and level the car out. Now it's to the point where I lower the rear passenger but when the car has settled it hasn't changed the height of the car. I'm lost as I can't work out why that corner won't come down even though I'm lowering the spring.

Have you loosened all the control arm mounting points to release the tension on the bushes? This can limit adjustment. You'll need to have the car on ramps so everything is loaded and at ride height.

Also, check the springs to see if they're marked left/right or nearside/farside. I wouldn't expect that, but you never know...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...