Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol nah she spent $1k on me i think thats enough.

ill do sway bars eventually but as ive made a dramatic improvement over the previous suspension ive had, i think ill just get used to these first..

Lol dude, was just stirring; anytime you're ready.:thumbsup: They'll make a nice amount of difference, especially since your shocks were fairly stuffed to begin with.

  • 1 month later...

So is it 2x3mm washers that are required on each coilover? Does it matter what they are made of?

Pm me your address; I'll post some to you. I has a shite load of them.

Sorry I should really keep all of the questions/info here.. What is involved with the rear spring removal in the M35? can you just take the outer bolt out of the "lower spring mount" and that is enough to drop the spring out or is there more to it?

Sorry I should really keep all of the questions/info here.. What is involved with the rear spring removal in the M35? can you just take the outer bolt out of the "lower spring mount" and that is enough to drop the spring out or is there more to it?

As Dale once said..

To remove the STD rear spring it is easier to undo the inner mount for the lower arm (one with the spring seat) and lower the whole arm supported with a jack. Mark the eccentric bolt on the lower arm before removal. You'll be aligning once you're done; but at least you're no worse off. The STD spring is very long and you won't be able to swing the arm far enough down to remove the spring from the seat.

I thought you said you'd sussed it out already :P

Is anyone finding that they need to set the rear passenger spring lower than the drivers rear to get the back of the car level?

I'm using Tanabe and the rear passenger side needs the spring adjusted lower to try and level the car out. Now it's to the point where I lower the rear passenger but when the car has settled it hasn't changed the height of the car. I'm lost as I can't work out why that corner won't come down even though I'm lowering the spring.

Is anyone finding that they need to set the rear passenger spring lower than the drivers rear to get the back of the car level?

I'm using Tanabe and the rear passenger side needs the spring adjusted lower to try and level the car out. Now it's to the point where I lower the rear passenger but when the car has settled it hasn't changed the height of the car. I'm lost as I can't work out why that corner won't come down even though I'm lowering the spring.

Have you loosened all the control arm mounting points to release the tension on the bushes? This can limit adjustment. You'll need to have the car on ramps so everything is loaded and at ride height.

Also, check the springs to see if they're marked left/right or nearside/farside. I wouldn't expect that, but you never know...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...