Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that's great Martin, thanks for posting

so once ecu is remapped area under curve is pretty much the same

the 2011 has a stronger top end, could that be due to the larger turbo intake piping?

Same conclusion here. Once properly tuned they are almost the same.

The two cars output is so close due to the fact that they have a mechanically identical engine package and turbochargers. The MY11 has fractionally larger inlet pipes which at this level of tune dont make a massive difference, but do account for some of the top end improvement

Wow, those results are so definitive. Very much the case of holding back something when first developed so you have something to market when the new model is released. We'll have to call it the new "Apple iGT-R" :nyaanyaa: Based on this and the availability of the Cobb TCM software one would think we can get old and new GTRs launcing relatively similarly and giving identical acceleration figures.

Martin

Thank you very much for the datayes.gif

Now I can stop thinking about wasting a pile of money on the new model.

My 2010 already has your full Ti Exhaust system and a bunch of other stuff.

Sounds to me like some of those 08, 09 & 10 GTR's that have popped up on the car sales website to upgrade, would be better off giving you a call and going to their local Willall/Cobb tuner and get updated mechanically for a truck load less $ than buying the new model.

Your detailed data makes me feel a whole lot better about my decision to keep my car and continue to upgrade it.

I also just ordered your splitter through Mercury and I think your turbo upgrade kit etc, is on the cards in the near future?

Kymbo

Thanks Kymbo :)

From our analysis the reason that the 2011 is quicker in magazine tests is not only its improved transmission software, but the ease with which you can put it into Launch Control mode. Many journos struggled getting their head around LC2 and simply bogged the car against the brake thinking it was in Launch mode...when in fact it wasnt. LC4 makes it easy for scribblers to actually get it right for once - hence the car road tests as a missile :)

so martin , according to the dyno there is about 10 ish kw difference . But carsales has this in their reviews -

"Despite a significant increase in output, now 390kW/612Nm against the predecessor's 357kW/588Nm, the GT-R is so tactile in delivering its mother-load that one would really need to be insensitive to such astounding figures to make a schemozzle of proceedings."

that's at 33kw difference , one car is either over stating or the other car is under stating.

so martin , according to the dyno there is about 10 ish kw difference . But carsales has this in their reviews -

"Despite a significant increase in output, now 390kW/612Nm against the predecessor's 357kW/588Nm, the GT-R is so tactile in delivering its mother-load that one would really need to be insensitive to such astounding figures to make a schemozzle of proceedings."

that's at 33kw difference , one car is either over stating or the other car is under stating.

they're quoting engine power. and again not sure if what they are quoting is 100% accurate.

thanks for sharing martin. 09s certainly are rich and the 11 is nearly a full point leaning right through the map. I guess the leaner tune, more midrange boost accounts for the power difference really. the 11 really has a nice hit of boost in the midrange which would certainly make it feel a hell of a lot faster too.

ultimate results are not surprising. they have the same hardware and once tuned the same 'software' so getting the same output is no surprise. again, thanks for posting.

Bit of a noob here and have a question regarding the launch control? Hope someone can set my mind at ease. Looking at getting a R35 but not sure on 09/10 vs MY11 - Was leaving toward the 11 due to the launch control being covered under warranty and not so hard on the transmission.

1) So is there a concern with transmission issues on a used 09/10 with launch control - does it void the warranty?

2) Can the software changes for launch control applied to MY11 be applied to MY09/10's

Thanks

LC was discussed at length a while back here

cliff notes;

- 09 ADM build has LC1, but need to turn VDC-OFF, hence no warranty

-10 ADM build has LC2, but can be used with VDC-R and few hundred rpm lower, hence warranty

- 11 ADM build has LC3, but can be used with VDC-R with similar rev limit to 09 ADM, hence warranty

of course that warranty is all dependant on you leaving the car 100% stock, or lucking it up with a mod friendly dealer when something goes boom

if you wish to improve LC even further, cobb have that covered

http://cobbtuning.co...oducts/?id=5676

- ENHANCED LAUNCH CONTROL:Updates TCM to Nissan LC2 launch control logic with two user selectable launch control modes! Level 1 sets launch control revs to 3,300rpm (300 more than stock LC2) with more aggressive clutch engagement and throttle curve. Level 2 raises launch control revs to 3,700 rpm with the same clutch and throttle characteristics as Level 1.

imo LC is fun the first couple of times as a novelty when you first get the car, but as you begin to modifty the car, i dont find myself using it anymore or necessary to go quick off the line - save your tranny/drivetrain the stress and reduce the need for any repair bills

Edited by domino_z

Correct - it was only the few 08JDM imports that came in that had the LC1.

All Oz delivered cars had at least LC2 that you could launch without the VDC being off. The only warranty concerns were if you switched the VDC off - but you could launch all you liked.

sorry Hazey i gotz those cliff notes wrong

either way, dont get too caught up in the warranty of using LC

if you have any shred of adrenaline or motoring enthusiasm in you, you wont keep this car stock with that pitiful electronic whine of an oem exhaust and limited by design 'apple iGTR'1 factory power output

1Fungoolie - pure geniusism

Its not "just" the power upgrade that I like about the 2011 model.

The interior is nicer, the suspension is smoother, the wheels look awesome,

and then there is the new colour.

Nothing wrong with the 09/10 models - never will be.

Just good to see the little tweaks have made it a better overall car than the previous one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...