Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was speaking to Paul from Red R Racing he measured (cc)the rb 25 det head from my customers build while i was on the phone to him and he knows RB26 heads like the back of his hand.

OP exactly which pistons did u get from spool?

  • Replies 146
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Comp test was 160 odd across the board...Was promising before I had talked to Paul.

Paul says that after doing a back calculation using those pistons with the head I have (obviously with some small assumptions) the static C.R. will be sitting in the 10's.

The only reason I bought those pistons was on the basis that those heads are listed to cc up 62-66cc between the three - as listed in the RB30DOHC pdf. Hence the C.R. should have been around 9.

Pretty upset that its come this far to find this information out...

That said, I still have options.

Timing is apparently being checked tomorrow, however, after talking to Paul - I doubt this will make a difference.

Rob82

Im unsure how they tested the CAS as I was not there. However, I suggested the CAS could have been a problem but they replied by saying that if that were the case they would have been getting funky readings/timing all over the rev range (which they weren't apparently).

Problem is, If we do lock in 20 deg timing and take it to 6000RPM it will PING/KNOCK its head off and possibly cause damage. Something which I dont want to do. I will be suggesting the CAS sensor/assembly having an issue again.

Thanks, the setup is pretty much identical to Cubes RB30 setup. In fact, it is his turbo which is bolted on the side of my motor :) I got to drive it between the tuners and the builder/assemblers. Made 207RWKW with 7-8 degrees worth of timing but still feels SOOOO responsive!

As a result of the answer in bold - Time to get a second opinion if he was referring to the timing read out from the ecu when tuning. :S

The timing the tuner see's via his tuning software will not show the CAS swaying timing about. The only way to check it is as Rob82 suggested, in idle, timing light and bring rev's up. No load so it won't ping.

Comp ratio - 160psi isn't excessive. Don't go ripping pistons out just yet. I'm almost willing to put $$ on they are not the problem.

R32 RB25DE heads always cc up around the low to mid 60cc's. RB25 Neo heads are the only ones I remember ccing up in the 50's.

My money would be on the CAS or you have some sensitive knock sensors and the tuner is going off them. Its a worry if he is. :P

RB26 ones went in with a 26pfc and all was good.

On a second note - you are running a catch can setup?

No catch can setup.

Tuner said it was an audible knock. I.e. didnt need a sensor to hear it! Knock sensor reflected this aswell.

Im soooooo confused right about now!

Is it breathing?

And get a leak down test done.

Pull the recirc off and see how she's breathing.

I used to run two catch cans to keep it stockish looking. One either side using the std plumbing - the PCV was blocked off but connected to make it look legit.

Comp test was 160 odd across the board...

That is a perfectly normal compression, or a tiny bit high if it has had no run in.

You need to look at simple things liek base timing and cam timing before pulling the motor out.

Motor has been "run" in on the Dyno for about 30mins to bed the rings and bores in. Still on thick castor oil until 1000km.

Cams are all standard as well as cam gears. So no real adjustment there.

Spoke to a couple of blokes last nite who have built pretty much the same setup as me except pistons. Can anyone confirm the head cc of an R32 RB25DE?

I would go somewhere else and get a second opinion.I dont know how the motor was built but to be tuning it for full load on a 30 minute old engine seems a little odd to me. Please correct me if its only a base tune for the run in process that they are doing.

Are they sure that its knock they are hearing and not an engine noise?

Edited by ido09s

As for the tune- I believe it was a "power" tune. After that, drive for 1000km, not too harsher driving, then drop old castor oil and put synthetic in. I may stand to be corrected tho so don't take it all as gospel.

Edited by R32Abuser

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
×
×
  • Create New...