Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Want to run on E85, yes, and make 350rwkW on this turbo and push for more later in year.

Aero wise, fitted rear difusser and vortes generators ( varis or voltex, not sure, off an evo ) and will be making front splitter and some sideskirt changes before the event. Also made changes to suspension. Car is a 98 model. Bought it as stock road car 8 years a go!

Nice work Andrew looks very promising good luck matethumbsup.gif. I too know the feeling of a 3yr project as my R32 GTR took the same amount of time and I can't get the grin off my face every time I drive it, this video has inspired me to go all out of my 33 GTR now... time attack here I come.

Running shitty old R888s now. 255 front and 275 rear. For WTAC will run 235 front and 265 rear super soft Hankooks but will later modify gurds to fit 265 front and 295 rear.

Share your secret where you get the tyres from?

Running shitty old R888s now. 255 front and 275 rear. For WTAC will run 235 front and 265 rear super soft Hankooks but will later modify gurds to fit 265 front and 295 rear.

Why run 235s at WTAC when the car run fit 255s now? or do they scrub significantly?

nice one mate. 1:06 for a first test day is pretty rapid. should be very quick once dialled in. looks bloody quick for 270kw too. they must be real kw not the inflated kw everyone talks about...

hope it goes well for you at WTAC. :)

Show queen to track hack.

What was the inspiration for the change Andrew?

What?!! It was always a STREET car that looked good. It got thrashed hard!!

Too hard having a car like that on the road. A blown oil pump meant I pulled the engine out, then I decided to '"tidy" some things up and re-do things I wasn't happy with. One thing lead to another and BAM, a bare shell S14.

A track itch has been there for a while. Starting a new business and running it meant the build was a bit slow is all.

That and Time Attack is sick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...