Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Keep going deeper

Nothing is ever fine, even if you have a fresh set up. Shit happens.

My main point is, the guy has taken it to a tuner, good chance a reputable one and since I havent had personal experience with them its hard to be sure.

They have probably done a fair few and probably a whole heap of other cars with similar turbos and is aware that they are ceramic. This isnt the mid 90's

where info and experience is limited. We have thousands of GTR's in oz now.

The guy is happy with the work, even notes that hes getting better highway mileage. Then all this touting that hes running too much boost and scaring

the poor bugger into turning it down. I doubt any of these guys were there. All they are doing is touting shit that they read/their mate did/etc. So straight

up giving flack to this tuner because he decides thats what the engine likes and he can make it live.

No one is scaring anyone by giving the facts and potential dangers, better to have the information & make an informed decision - than not at all. It's just comes down to a calculated choice as follows.

Can you afford the rebuild?

If you can, carry on.

If you can't, then play it safe.

What one deems to be safe - arguable. There is enough evidence from users personal experience to make a reasonably informed "idea" of safe - if you wish.

Of course "shit happens", thats life. But you can reduce the risk of shit "happening", is all people are saying.

There was poor bloke recently who lost a forged motor by putting stock turbos back on as he didn't have the cash for nonceramic at the time. Running 1bar too. That's the stuff that is really shit and really hate reading :(

As I said via pm tho, that much boost is asking for a dead motor for the sake of 20rwkw, I strongly urge you to consider lowering the boost to a safer level for longevity of turbos, and in turn your motor

dead motor due to the turbos grenading? or dead motor from that much torque?

Then all this touting that hes running too much boost and scaring the poor bugger into turning it down. I doubt any of these guys were there. All they are doing is touting shit that they read/their mate did/etc.

We are pointing out that he's running a high risk, its up to him to accept that risk or not. There is plenty of evidence that these turbos fail quickly at that boost, and quite a few instances where turbo failure has destroyed the engine. It makes a very poor cost/benefit trade off for most people.

None of us were there, but what's the relevance of that? We are taking OP at his word, and assuming that he understood what he was told. If we dont make those assumptions there's no point in responding.

FWIW, my stock GTR turbos failed at 13psi. Fortunately, no motor damage.

This is a community, and as such we should look out for each other. If I were in OP's shoes, i'd want to know about the risk.

ido09s it was definatly Jim. There are only 3 guys there and Jim does the tuning. I called him a few times while the car was being tuned. And yes, he did say the dyno reading on paper was 20kw less than actual power figure. Feel free to call him and ask

dead motor due to the turbos grenading? or dead motor from that much torque?

Turbo failure. Rear turbo fails usually, ceramic dust/particles end up scatterd across the piston top/eating up ringlands and on occasion some marks on the valves.

Not really sure how torque/stock turbos is going to kill a stock RB26

My car made 350kw....

Well the dyno sheet says 296kw but :ninja:

If ur car makes 261 on the dyno thats what u tell everyone it makes. 4kw max round up so u made 265 and i made 300kw

Glad ur happy with the tune he gave u.

REMEMBER.its just a number. There is ALOT of variable when comparing different dyno's.

Like comparing apples and oranges

I'm not trying to bullshit power figures, I'm simply going off what I was told at Dart and I don't think Jim would be bullshitting either. Whatever the actual power output is I'm happy with at the moment... I'm not looking for a 20kw cock extension like some people do.

I'm not looking for a 20kw cock extension like some people do.

Haha u hit the nail on the head.

Doesnt make sense why a tuning shop woul have there dyno calibrated 20kw lower than it should be then tell customers.

I use a mainline aswell as Rondofj stated and unlike dyno dynamics u cant fudge the figures as easy. Like cheating with inlet temps etc.

Who gives a f**k about all these replies!? As long as your happy and confident in your tuner then who cares what everyone else thinks?

You and I both know that if the thing blows up tomorrow, that your in a pretty good financial position to get it fixed anyhow thumbsup.gif

Bring it around on the weekend. I wanna go for a spin!!

I'm not trying to bullshit power figures, I'm simply going off what I was told at Dart and I don't think Jim would be bullshitting either. Whatever the actual power output is I'm happy with at the moment... I'm not looking for a 20kw cock extension like some people do.

Your tune is perfectly fine , my stock turbos have been running 1.2 Bar near 300KWs , Tuned by a highly respected tuner in S.A 6 years ago still going strong , enjoy it !!!!!yes.gif

yeah and thats the exact key to the issue

if you can afford it and are willing to wear the risk go for it

many have run that boost and survived

and im sure there are equally as many who have ran that boost and failed

my car is the same

GTST with std turbo and running 0.85kgcm2 for years+++

many have failed at this level and let go taking the motor with it

im aware of the risk and if it happens, it happens

the key is, can you afford it and wear the risk

if so enjoy

if no, turn boost down as precaution

Yeah, you're probably right global warmer lol. I'll come round Sunday if you're gonna be home? You gonna have your car back for next Sunday?

Nissan gtr thanks for the vote of confidence... seems like you've done well and proof that it is clearly possible. To back that up and those questioning the power output with standard turbos, when calling around and talking to a few reputable tuners in Sydney, quite a few said that I could see anywhere up to 290/300kw including the guys at advan who someone mentioned earlier. Thanks for all the input positive or negative none the less

well ok i got a little dilemma with tuners theories. 1 tuner tells me on standard bottom end with cams and a big turbo to be safe you need you retard the timing and set the cams to 0 and the boost is quiet laggy

then i talk to another tuner and he goes, if you advance the timing and up the cam timing (or whatever it is) but control the torque you can have full boost by 2800rpm

p.s this isnt on a rb26 but just an example???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...