Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 259
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Because they are better...

Maybe to some people but honestly not for me. I am happy with my RB26 and i would have never considered an LS1 when doing my engine swap.

If they were that good Reece McGregor would have ditched trhe RB26 and put a V8 into his GTR but something tells me the mid 7 he runs with his RB is more than adequate :D

I wonder how many seconds you'd get with infinite boost before you did the headgasket or put a hole in a piston.

Any one keen to try it out? : D

With a good tune i think you may be surprised. The exhaust wheel would probably give up before the engine i reckon

Edited by ido09s

With a good tune i think you may be surprised. The exhaust wheel would probably give up before the engine i reckon

How do you tune for infinite boost? On a stock turbo maybe. But on a steel wheeled turbo, all overboosting is going to do is super-heat the intake air and cause detonation.

How do you tune for infinite boost? On a stock turbo maybe. But on a steel wheeled turbo, all overboosting is going to do is super-heat the intake air and cause detonation.

How does anyone tune a Pro Turbo car when they run 50psi+. Takes a fair bit of knowledge and some skill to do it right the first time, but its done on a daily basis now so its not impossible

There would obviously be limitations to the stock bolt ons, but lets assume they have been changed to cope i am sure the engine would last longer than most would expect.

Maybe to some people but honestly not for me. I am happy with my RB26 and i would have never considered an LS1 when doing my engine swap.

If they were that good Reece McGregor would have ditched trhe RB26 and put a V8 into his GTR but something tells me the mid 7 he runs with his RB is more than adequate :D

OK, RB26 vs LS1 is a little different as the RB26 is paired with a pretty good 4WD system. If someone were to figure out how to pair ATTESA with an all alloy V8 only purists would stick with the RB26 :)

How do you tune for infinite boost? On a stock turbo maybe. But on a steel wheeled turbo, all overboosting is going to do is super-heat the intake air and cause detonation.

Infinite boost is infinite air, so you would simply need infinite fuel :laugh:

thats why i said get a nistune board and a tune, i'm fairly certain the standard injectors and fuel pump could supply enough fuel for 15psi...

my injectors were nearly at peak duty on 0.98bar so i believe im right about 15 on stock killing the engine. let alone stock turbo.

I say stop being a blouse and pick something faster to aim for. A stock LS1 is just a boat anchor and i dont know why anyone would want a Skyline being compared with one.

Why not choose a Veyron, or a Koenigsegg CCXR. Surely this sort of performance would be a lot more appealing :D

I had to laugh at this though..... clearly our laws arent doing enough and obviously do need some reform.... ie school kids should stick to a PS3 and GT5 and most certainly should not be let loose in even a stock Skyline, let alone a modified one.

"I have been on P plates for 3 years now but in less than a month I will graduate to my full license. I know the majority of people on here agree with keeping P platers out of high powered cars is a good idea and I cant say i disagree. But these laws definitley need an overhaul, it is clear that the people who came up with these laws don't know much about cars and as such, shouldn't have been put in charge."

Oh and this is absolute GOLD!!!!!

"The reality of weather you should be in a high powered vehicle or not comes down to your attitude, not your age."

Not that i would think you could be bothered to read through that garbage but it just got worse and worse lol.

How does anyone tune a Pro Turbo car when they run 50psi+. Takes a fair bit of knowledge and some skill to do it right the first time, but its done on a daily basis now so its not impossible

There would obviously be limitations to the stock bolt ons, but lets assume they have been changed to cope i am sure the engine would last longer than most would expect.

Yeh when you set a boost controller to 50psi, that's different than just letting the wastegate free-boost.

Infinite boost is infinite air, so you would simply need infinite fuel :laugh:

And timing? :P Boost does not = air volume.

I dont think the 6.0L v8 is going to get beaten with only $1000 spent on the rb,

theres too much torque and outright nasty grunt , i really think you'd need a gt30 to hose one off convincingly

even if you have enough power , how good are you at launching the thing?? if you dont get a sweet launch then your toast!!

and if the v8 recieves some cams and extractors and tune, then just give up lol, or spent some big money..:whistling:

remember you'll lose your licence if you do 30k's over speed limit which is too easy ...pinch.gif

Edited by SliverS2

and if the v8 recieves some cams and extractors and tune, then just give up lol, or spent some big money..:whistling:

I was gonna say, what if your competitors' V8 had any amount of money sunk into it? It's a pretty steep uphill battle!

I dont think the 6.0L v8 is going to get beaten with only $1000 spent on the rb,

theres too much torque and outright nasty grunt , i really think you'd need a gt30 to hose one off convincingly

even if you have enough power , how good are you at launching the thing?? if you dont get a sweet launch then your toast!!

and if the v8 recieves some cams and extractors and tune, then just give up lol, or spent some big money..:whistling:

remember you'll lose your licence if you do 30k's over speed limit which is too easy ...pinch.gif

You're just comparing the engines. You forget they happened to put them into an outright oil-tanker of a car.

As previously mentioned, the R8 is not a bad area to set the bar at. The VX runs what, 13-flat? Easily achievable in a mildly modified Skyline.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...