Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I know this topic has been covered but after much searching and reading I still have a question for those in the know:

Are the good quality silicon intake pipes (UAS, JJR, Samco) any good in high boost/horsepower applcations (i.e. do they suck shut)?

I'm looking at these because getting a custom intake made seems expensive, sleeving the stock one is only half a fix and the only alloy ones around (Performance-Wise) don't seem to be a very good fit (I have an alloy CAI and need the pod to sit exactly where it does now).

Failing this does anyone know where I can get a decent, factory-fit, alloy induction pipe?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372995-rb25det-induction-pipe/
Share on other sites

I had an alloy one custom made by ScottyNM35 (he's done a few for other members also). I'm not sure if I'd trust the silicone ones for high power applications. Cost more than the other options getting about, but well worth it in my opinion. Bolts up to factory airbox no dramas

There are a couple of DIY's on sau where some steel piping is inserted inside the stock [rubber] intake. A decent cheap and quick fix for 'x' power.

sleeving the stock one is only half a fix

...

My advice would be to splash out on a custom stainless one. I did and I believe it to be money well spent. Custom will always fit your car perfectly. And the sound it makes... Oh the sound :wub:

@star33 - As you say "cheap quick fix" but not good enough from what I've read (see Hypergear thread) as they still restrict airflow at high power levels and I am looking for 250+rwkw

@Hekt1k - Thanks mate I have pinged ScottyNM35

@Honaldo - This may end up being the only viable option... How much did it cost you and where did you get it done?

I've had a fair bit of metal custom fabrication work done by Scott (Scottynm35) and I have to agree with Hekt1k, it's an excellent way to go.

I've been very happy with the work Scott has done for me and I'd definetly reccommend going the metal intake pipe with Scott :thumbsup:

If you are in Sydney, Fairfield exhaust shop will do custom intake pipes for $80 - $120 a piece. Really good price but I ended up making my own piece of shit. I wouldn't mind getting something proper made. I designed my metal pipe around the pod filter, and z32 and enclosure. I should have made a pipe bigger, all metal and then remade a box to suit. Silly me.

Thanks for the feedback guys - I am going to go down the fabrication path

The general concensus seems to be that the silicon pipes are not the ideal solution.

I'm getting some work done at Sabbadin soon and I was in there yesterday looking at there fabrication work which is superb!

I may as well get it all done at once...

Thanks for the feedback guys - I am going to go down the fabrication path

The general concensus seems to be that the silicon pipes are not the ideal solution.

I'm getting some work done at Sabbadin soon and I was in there yesterday looking at there fabrication work which is superb!

I may as well get it all done at once...

Good choice, you won't regret it :thumbsup:

Looks hot, sounds awesome, and most importantly you know it is going to do the job you want it to do. Just make sure you get at least 3"! lol.

Thanks for the feedback guys - I am going to go down the fabrication path

The general concensus seems to be that the silicon pipes are not the ideal solution.

I'm getting some work done at Sabbadin soon and I was in there yesterday looking at there fabrication work which is superb!

I may as well get it all done at once...

Good work, I've actually asked Rob as well on a quote to do that stuff, I'll be popping around Sabbadin today maybe he can do a group discount lol

Hey could you PM me some contact details for this guy? I have some custom pipework needs in a couple of months time. Does he do custom stainless exhaust parts too?

Mine was $250, was made by Kermit. Dunno if you've heard of him over there, but in the west he's the man you speak to when you need any fabrication work done :D

You can do it with a 3" 45deg bend, a straight length of 3" pipe (couple of hundred mm long), 2x 3" straight silicon joiners & 1x 2.5"-3" silicon reducer.

Mine is welded but you could just use a silicon joiner to join the bend and straight bit. It is currently off getting a 2" bov return welded to it but when it comes back I'll take some pics :thumbsup:

There definately seems to be a big gap in market here for someone to exploit (I am unfortunately not that talented!)

Someone could make a killing if they could fabricate these in numbers for a decent price!

Good work, I've actually asked Rob as well on a quote to do that stuff, I'll be popping around Sabbadin today maybe he can do a group discount lol

I have made a few for local guys that can drop in with their car, but every one of them was different. (pod, bov return, turbo intake size/position.) Makes it very hard to mass produce and make on the cheap unfortunately.

Its the fiddly bits like bov return, breather etc that take the time to get right, the steel bov piping also needs to be modified to align with the intake fitting.

I have made a few for local guys that can drop in with their car, but every one of them was different. (pod, bov return, turbo intake size/position.) Makes it very hard to mass produce and make on the cheap unfortunately.

Its the fiddly bits like bov return, breather etc that take the time to get right, the steel bov piping also needs to be modified to align with the intake fitting.

To compensate for this, I am using some fat heater hose suitable for about 45psi, to return the BOV output. It seemed way too fiddly to get metal to metal fittings to line up. I would pay though to have a proper all metal intake pipe made.

As luck would have it I've managed to score myself an Apexi super suction intake pipe

A very nice piece of kit in cast alloy... nobody could fabricate anything of this much beauty out of exhaust pipe :P

Can't wait to hear the GT-RS sucking through this puppy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...