Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What do you think you'd need to make over 250 safe on 98? V Pro and cable throttle?

Why would you need a cable throttle?

A "safe" 250 can be done on 98 with highflow, intake, intercooler, exhaust, injectors, pump and a eManage Ultimate

I don't think the emanage is reliable above 250, the timing doesn't hold steady at all with the stock ecu still in charge causing pinking occasionally. With ethanol it won't obviously, that's why I run it now.

He was because he wanted better response and the eManage can't get around the ecu f**king with the throttle.

Hence the thought to remove the FBW throttle body, leave the ECU in limp and control it all with the eManage.

To much of a f**k around, hence the change to the Fcon V-Pro.

At least, that's my understanding (or lack thereof)

I don't think the emanage is reliable above 250, the timing doesn't hold steady at all with the stock ecu still in charge causing pinking occasionally. With ethanol it won't obviously, that's why I run it now.

Interesting.

Has Craig found this to be an issue?

Of course, but his went rich also.

There is a noticeable timing change on high boost at different times without additives.......advance/retard under hard acceleration ........but then again I still have to go back on the dyno as I have changed a couple of things since the tune.

as far as being safe......motor doesn't sound or feel stressed so yeh it's safe....but I only run 15-16psi most of the time!.....If I am running 20PSI I now run Octane boost in it and all seems good.

P.S. And yes my car does run rich!

Edited by Jetwreck

Advanced timing is ok if its run rich, that's how the Japanese tunes run most of the time. As long as theres no knock you're fine. The hassle is you need to run a buffer of a few degrees at least as the stock ecu changes constantly. That's why I'm going standalone.

I'm looking at getting my exhaust done next week. Is it advisable to get the suction pipe done at the same time or should I wait until I have the Fcon IS installed?

As you can tell I know nothing about mechanics.

Edited by ArdentEagle

I'm looking at getting my exhaust done next week. Is it advisable to get the suction pipe done at the same time or should I wait until I have the Fcon IS installed?

As you can tell I know nothing about mechanics.

Wait. Without some method of tuning, it will run like crap (in a bad way, lol).

Wait. Without some method of tuning, it will run like crap (in a bad way, lol).

Only if you floor it a lot.

I've been running the suction pipe with stock ecu/injectors/pump for... erm... a while.

Unless I put my foot to the floor, it runs very nicely.

1/2 to 2/3 throttle is fine on my car

Only if you floor it a lot.

I've been running the suction pipe with stock ecu/injectors/pump for... erm... a while.

Unless I put my foot to the floor, it runs very nicely.

1/2 to 2/3 throttle is fine on my car

Impressive. That's different to my (short) experience so far. Mine only ran "ok" for the first drive on a cool night, with very minor AFM adjustments. Since then (in warmer daytime running) I've had to baby it whilst slowly making changes to the tune. Just haven't had enough time to get on top of it as yet.

Going by my almost useless "memory", your AFM is on the verge of a bend though, yes? Could this be the issue?

The air is more dense on the outside of the bend and gets more so the faster it flows, it makes it very hard to tune around, even with an emanage...

It certainly could be an issue. If it turns out to be "untunable", I will put the standard one back on. Other than an extra little hole in the airbox (which is easily patched) I made sure I didn't mod any other OEM part.

And if it does turn out to be untunable, I might be tempted to ask "why didn't someone mention this before" lol.

Mmmm, if I give it some more thought I might be able to block off the AFM hole & move the little housing thingy down the intake to a straighter bit.

Anyway, I have about 200 voltage load points I can set (either up or down) so I reckon I have a fair to reasonble shot at getting it right. It could just take a whole lot of time....

I did warn you. :)

Haha, I don't remember. But I'm not sunk, just some work to do to tune it. Anyway, nothings lost. All this stuff is just a bit of fun (challenge?) for me. Works / doesn't work - either way no big deal :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...