Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thread title fail.

lol it was a topic title to draw attention and it worked :D

anyway, does anyone think that hard wiring the fuel pump will fix my 300rpm lumpy idle. and the miss on throttle application?? i was just going to do some basic patch wiring over the fuel pump relay into a second relay but i cant find one in the fuse/relay panel :/ am i going nuts??

Edited by lilcrash
  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Except now you've lied to everyone else.

And I don't like being lied to. Especially about people lying.

Don't lie, you love being lied to, it's being lied on that you don't like!nyaanyaa.gif

yes theres alot of BS surrounding the fitment of walbro pumps. so many ppl say "they bolt straight in" on so many cars. they just forget to mention that the plugs need to be changed and you have to modify mounting brackets and hold the whole thing together with zip ties. after all the shit i want through with my commodore i'll never touch another walbro pump again. OEM branded pumps are a much better way to go.

There's nothing wrong with "real" Walbro's, the fakes gave them a bad name I guess, but that's the way every brand is these days. My twins are quiet and flow massive amounts of e85 right up to 80psi with little effort. For the price they cant be beaten and low current flow makes them easy on your wiring but they definitely need full 14v straight from the battery. Just wire the old power feed up to a 30amp relay that switches the 14v if you haven't already.

I used a hose clamp to hold them in place.

For the M35 guys Walbro's drop straight in to the stock fuel housing once the tabs on the top are trimmed off.

No, there is a fuel controller that gets a signal from the ecu.

The wire that went to the stock pump you use to energise a new relay that switches the 14v straight from the battery, (through a fuse of course). That way the car is still controlling the on and off of the pump just not dropping the voltage at idle which is your issue I think.

Could your fuelling issues be that the cradle didn't clip back correctly into the tank, and has now come loose?

I know I almost didn't clip mine back in properly when I fitted my Walbro pump (18 months ago and running just perfect still).

:thumbsup:

I think the biggest problem with stagea fuel pump upgrading is everyone goes into the job expecting a cradle like the skylines and it's not, it's a holder/box on the bottom of the tank.

I know i did, and I was like WTF when I opened the tank and there was no lift out cradle. it also took me a little while to figure out how to get the top of the holder to get to the fuel pump, didn't help that my tank was about a 3rd full.

Also to anyone that said walbro are too much of a stuff around to fit you obviously haven't trying to fit one to a S2 stagea before. If I laid a stock pump next to a GSS-342 you would hardley notice a difference. Inlet/outlet sizes are the same, electrics are the same, physical size is the same.

Steven, if you have a nistuned ecu that already has the Z32 afm swap done on it, and you swap your afm to the Z32 and use that ecu it should start and run. It wont be perfect but enough to know that it works. Nistune does a good job at resizing the values on afm swaps. When I did mine it was a little bit out, it was rich, I had to drop the kconst a little bit to get it running stoich. Unless you have a wideband to check it I wouldn't drive it around.

HA!!

you guys think YOU dont like being lied to....!

How about this then; Surgeon - "I'll remove your kneecaps & you'll be fine."

4 years later; loss of job/house/marriage & throw in same-old chronic disabling pain for the fun of it.

f**king KUNT of a surgeon. Pity I had no other option though, as the pain from bone on bone for 15yrs in both knees was pretty intense, so much so I just had to agree to removing the patellas & 'see what happens'.

IN or OUT its the same deal. Just now Im disabled in my movement, etc.

lol, rant over.

Anyways, I bought a Walbro 'da-27' 305LPH fuel pump, installed externally (GTR intank pump feeds 5L surgetank, walbro then feeds 550cc injectors).

From what I can tell its a bosch 044 copy and isnt walbro at all. Made by Driven2Automotive but marketed as Walbro.

Ive been lied to!

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years. Let's see things she has done while I was at work, built a diff from 3 broken ones, 3 turbo swaps, 2 engine removals and 1 gearbox swap. And she wants to go do an auto ellecy apprentice ship so she can do ecu installs and tunes.

There's nothing wrong with "real" Walbro's, the fakes gave them a bad name I guess, but that's the way every brand is these days. My twins are quiet and flow massive amounts of e85 right up to 80psi with little effort. For the price they cant be beaten and low current flow makes them easy on your wiring but they definitely need full 14v straight from the battery. Just wire the old power feed up to a 30amp relay that switches the 14v if you haven't already.

I used a hose clamp to hold them in place.

For the M35 guys Walbro's drop straight in to the stock fuel housing once the tabs on the top are trimmed off.

this is exactly my point. the pumps work great. but theres nothing "bolt in" about them. having to wire up a new relay and custom mounting makes it difficult for ppl without the tools or experience. my advise to anyone with little experience is do not attempt it.

Here a how to with some pictures which may help:

http://www.skylineow...d.php?p=1492788

(As a matter of interest I think it was written by the guy who expressed an interest in bringing his (masa fronted) stagea to Aus)

Indeed it was me that wrote that guide.

Fitting was exactly as per the guide, my Stagea is a Series 2 RS4V and I did also do the earth mod and run another better supply via relay too. I think that any uprated pump would require better wiring, the standard wire gauge in the car isn't exactly generous.

Oh and I'm still waiting for the job. The recruitment is on hold at the moment, but rest assured if I get the chance to transfer I'll be coming to annoy some of you guys in person ;)

Edited by DeanR33

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years. Let's see things she has done while I was at work, built a diff from 3 broken ones, 3 turbo swaps, 2 engine removals and 1 gearbox swap. And she wants to go do an auto ellecy apprentice ship so she can do ecu installs and tunes.

Does she have a sister? :worship:

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years. Let's see things she has done while I was at work, built a diff from 3 broken ones, 3 turbo swaps, 2 engine removals and 1 gearbox swap. And she wants to go do an auto ellecy apprentice ship so she can do ecu installs and tunes.

I think you're very lucky to have such a wife! Apart from the practical advantages its great to have a partner who shares an interest in car engineering :) :) :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...