Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I reckon this is the best thing to do sometimes. Which is hard, because the stock rims aren't that flash and don't allow for very big rubber.

I honestly think if there were easier access to places where people could hoon (drift, drag, burnout etc) that didn't cost a fortune more people would take it off the street. The problem is insurance for the venue, having people sign liability waivers doesn't seem to be enough anymore. People are too quick to point the finger at somebody else for their own stupidity.

It is a pain getting traction with the stock wheels. I'm thinking semislicks will be the way to go. There is a place in Perth ( http://www.motorplex.com.au/ ) where you can go every wednesday and take your car down the strip. Like Uncle Ben said to Spiderman "With great power comes great responsibility".

  • Replies 217
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They are a Bosch sensor but it's 1000F not C, so the are quoting 100F less just to cover their ass as they are covering the warranty. Also the closer to the turbo the more often that the sensor will need to be calibrated. The sensors are the same as the AEM sensor but AFAIK the AEM sensor is then calibrated by AEM before they sell them. There is a resistor number on the sensor and when you order the AEM sensor you have to quote that resistor number to get the right calibration.

They are a Bosch sensor but it's 1000F not C, so the are quoting 100F less just to cover their ass as they are covering the warranty. Also the closer to the turbo the more often that the sensor will need to be calibrated. The sensors are the same as the AEM sensor but AFAIK the AEM sensor is then calibrated by AEM before they sell them. There is a resistor number on the sensor and when you order the AEM sensor you have to quote that resistor number to get the right calibration.

http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/02_Tech_Guide_Email_Quality.pdf

Check out question 4 in this pdf. Its celsius. I dont know about how often you have to calibrate but mine has been done once and its been a few months now.

the difference in max temps would be at different positions, some quote max EGTs at the sensor, others quote max temp of the external sensor body etc.

the sensor uses a 18x1.5 thread, you can get bungs in mild or stainless pretty cheap off the net if you need them

I've got my wideband talking to my datalogit which is actually a bit useless seeing as the datalogit can only give min, max, or average values. With my girlfriends help I managed to tune my car extremely well using the datalogit for knock and the wideband for fuel. You dont need a dyno to tune your car. My tune was 98 percent of what the dyno guys could do and I would have got it to 100 percent. I just had other things to do besides tuning every time I went for a drive. To answer your question straight up, any lag time that is there is almost nothing and wont affect your ability to tune it properly.

datalogit can do more than min, max and average. if you know what your doing you can get the exact afr at any given time, load, rpm etc in several different ways. the graph function is actually very handy for knock as you can see exactly where on the map the ecu was reading when it knocked, i dont mean which cell, i mean exactly how far between 4 cells and what the timing was at the time. the cell the knock value pops up in isnt always the culprit due to interpolation, same goes for fuel.

the difference in max temps would be at different positions, some quote max EGTs at the sensor, others quote max temp of the external sensor body etc.

the sensor uses a 18x1.5 thread, you can get bungs in mild or stainless pretty cheap off the net if you need them

datalogit can do more than min, max and average. if you know what your doing you can get the exact afr at any given time, load, rpm etc in several different ways. the graph function is actually very handy for knock as you can see exactly where on the map the ecu was reading when it knocked, i dont mean which cell, i mean exactly how far between 4 cells and what the timing was at the time. the cell the knock value pops up in isnt always the culprit due to interpolation, same goes for fuel.

I'm pretty sure I got a bung or 2 with the wideband kit.

I haven't used the graph function yet. I'll have a sus tomorrow. But... The reason I said it was pretty useless is because the fuel in a cell will be different a lot of the time. Like light load acceleration will using the same cells in high rev deceleration and it will even be affected by acceleration enrichment when you plant it. You end up with 3 different afrs in the same cell as far as the datalogit is concerned. I've seen a max of 21.9:1 and a min of 10.X:1 in the same cell.

you can eliminate those by adjusting the max and min values it displays, it still eliminates them from the average. or again you could do it with the graph function, or even looks through the raw log files. theres several ways to do it without being affected by fuel cut and other factors.

also, i've found that apart from the first split second fuel cut almost always ends up in P1 or P2, as your almost never cruising in those cells i just left them standard

you can eliminate those by adjusting the max and min values it displays, it still eliminates them from the average. or again you could do it with the graph function, or even looks through the raw log files. theres several ways to do it without being affected by fuel cut and other factors.

also, i've found that apart from the first split second fuel cut almost always ends up in P1 or P2, as your almost never cruising in those cells i just left them standard

Well it seems that you know more about the datalogit than I do. Being a bit lazy and since we're both in Perth maybe we can catch up and you can show me some stuff with it. No homo, the missus would disapprove :rofl2:

he might reconsider if you buy him some booze :P

Good one snozzle :laugh: I've got about 5 cartons of home brew here. Although the last time I tuned my car when I was drunk it ended up being ridiculously rich. I was changing water temp correction on a cold night. :no: P.s My holden loving mate was driving and it converted him :yes: He couldn't get his head around 2.5 litres making the same power as his very worked 5 litres. :D

Do you guys use the supplied heatsink that the Innovate comes with? (well both of mine have had one) Or just weld in a bung like the OEM one?

If you use this, then the sensor itself isnt in direct flow of the exhausts gasses. The tip of it barely enters the flow. Just enough to give it a sniff as it flows past. lol.

Im pretty sure they give you this for that exact reason.

Im like someone else that mentioned it earlier, welded it into the de-cat pipe as its conveniently located near the cat wire grommet. And a good distance downstream. I figured seeing as i do track my car a bit it was the better place for it. Im not overly fussed with re-calibrating it, do it each time i change the oil and plugs. Takes 2 mins.

Do you guys use the supplied heatsink that the Innovate comes with? (well both of mine have had one) Or just weld in a bung like the OEM one?

If you use this, then the sensor itself isnt in direct flow of the exhausts gasses. The tip of it barely enters the flow. Just enough to give it a sniff as it flows past. lol.

Im pretty sure they give you this for that exact reason.

Im like someone else that mentioned it earlier, welded it into the de-cat pipe as its conveniently located near the cat wire grommet. And a good distance downstream. I figured seeing as i do track my car a bit it was the better place for it. Im not overly fussed with re-calibrating it, do it each time i change the oil and plugs. Takes 2 mins.

I just screwed mine into the dump with the copper washer that came with it.

I'll add something about distance for the sensor.

Was talking to a mate of mine last night who used one of these in his WRX (around 220awkw) for 4 years with the sensor right behind the turbo and he never had any issues. I'm not about to move mine from the de-cat as it's convenient for me but that info might come as some comfort for others who want to run it in the dump :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...