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ive seen a dry nos kit for 500$ it looks like an solinoid and a spray nozzol that u instale into filter box or directly into k&n filter.switches .bottle..other parts , they say u get 50-150hp. can some one shine some light upon this for me.

does it work ,what does it do to your engine & turbo. & in the long run is worth it.

my car has front mount intercooler ,boost controler ,turbo timmer ,apexi exsors system ,k&n filter

thanks if u can help out a dreamer.

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If you are seriously considering Nitrous (and I mean seriously considering it, not just because your mate said it's cool) I suggest spending a solid day researching exactly what it is, how it works, what are the differences between all the systems, what you want out of it etc.

Only then should you consider looking into buying a kit. Otherwise you will be like most amatuer nitrous users and cook an engine.

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ive seen a dry nos kit for 500$ it looks like an solinoid and a spray nozzol that u instale into filter box or directly into k&n filter.switches .bottle..other parts , they say u get 50-150hp. can some one shine some light upon this for me.

does it work ,what does it do to your engine & turbo. & in the long run is worth it.

my car has front mount intercooler ,boost controler ,turbo timmer ,apexi exsors system ,k&n filter

thanks if u can help out a dreamer.

Nos is killer ignore the knockers.... but better off with a "wet" kit.

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Pleeeeease for get it... just leave it well alone!

I favor nitrous over most on this site... I probably have more experience with nitrous than most on this site too...

Stay away from cheap dry nitrous kits...

thanks for that i realy dont one too rebuild an engine 4 a couple of skwerts or invest $40000 in an rebuilt engine.

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In a nutshell a dry system injects only nitrous into your intake. This would normally kill an engine straight away. So your ECU has to detect that nitrous has been activated and adjust the tune by adding more fuel from the injectors. There are some benefits to doing it like this but for most cases in cars such as ours it isn't the way to do things and is just asking for problems.

A wet system on the other hand injects fuel and nitrous into the intake and that's all that needs to be done. ECU doesn't need to do a thing. Lot easier and safer.

Videos to explain it:

Not sure if that was what you wanted to know or whether you actually wanted the details on it. Figured that was a brief enough explanation to understand it.

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Nice :D

Yeah research is the key. With nitrous you really need to understand how everything works as even a slight mistake can cost you big not to mention having an engine let go under full throttle while at speed is just plain dangerous.

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So a dry shot will cut your fuel and run straight NOS..

I didnt even know you could do that I thought it was always mixed with fuel by injecting it into your manifolds airstream, so a dry system i would of never considered.

So would you just have one nozzle in before TB or a sepeerate nozzle for each intake runner.

Also as far as i know it is only used when at full throttle unless you have some sort of staging fogger system or something right?

Does this mean only full throttle in top gear or could you give it a squirt in 3rd or 4th?

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No the dry system has to use the injectors to richen up the mixture. It's only called "dry" because the kit itself has nothing to do with fuel.

One nozzle before the throttle. Individual nozzles for each runner is done when you are talking about a serious shot of nitrous when one nozzle simply can't flow enough.

Yep always done on full throttle. Kits come with a manual switch setup which is gay so you can instead run an electronic TPS setup through a window switch or through an aftermarket ECU.

Any gear in reality. Comes down to traction though. However you should never hit limiter with nitrous engaged and you should be above 3000RPM. This is where the window switch/ECU control is much better than the simple manual switch setup they give you.

Like I said, there is plenty of things to learn about and it mainly comes down to learning the dangers and how to prevent them.

EDIT: I found the videos I was looking for. They explain it the best. So scroll back up to where I first posted the photos and watch the videos.

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Yep basically.

Mine is setup through the Vipec to arm off of a missile switch. Once armed it will only activate on full throttle (TPS 100%) and only between 3000-6000RPM. I also have first and second gear locked out so it will only activate in third or above (due to traction and not wanting to kill myself with an uncontrollable car lol).

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First thing to get into your head is that its not just $500, you can get a standard wet kit for around that price, obviously get a wet kit, However that is just the basic kit that if you run on its own, well your most likely going to blow shit up.

Your going to spend at least another 500-1000 on NEEDED accessories, such as Bottle Warmer, Purge Kit, then you need a rpm controller so that your nos is automatically injected between certain rpm.

If you don't want to break stuff except to spend at least a good 1.2k maybe less given the dollar, when I got my stuff dollar was a a lot lower so.

This is a good site to get stuff from

http://www.dynotunen...pts/default.asp

Obviously for a kit you can get something like a Sniper Kit off ebay and save $100 on shipping from the states.

Edited by P.K
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I'm gonna put a 100 shot, Wet Nitrous set-up for my 350Z later on down the track, i agree with you Phil do plenty of research because if you get it wrong then you will probably hurt your engine quite badly.

If you do enough reaserch, you'll find that most US based kits are pretty crappy... the solinoids are woefull. NX is brobably the best of a bad bunch.

For a safe, efficient and reliable nitrous system- look past the 'brands'. Especially for an expensive car.

50hp dry shot provided you have the fuel for but for over 75hp go wet.

Most people would not be able to set up a dry system correctly... most will get an initial lean out.

First thing to get into your head is that its not just $500, you can get a standard wet kit for around that price, obviously get a wet kit, However that is just the basic kit that if you run on its own, well your most likely going to blow shit up.

Your going to spend at least another 500-1000 on NEEDED accessories, such as Bottle Warmer, Purge Kit, then you need a rpm controller so that your nos is automatically injected between certain rpm.

If you don't want to break stuff except to spend at least a good 1.2k maybe less given the dollar, when I got my stuff dollar was a a lot lower so.

This is a good site to get stuff from

http://www.dynotunen...pts/default.asp

Obviously for a kit you can get something like a Sniper Kit off ebay and save $100 on shipping from the states.

As above... to do it properly, it's going to cost tripple your initial investment. Then once you have the whole lot up and running, you have to re-build most generic solinoids constantly to ensure eeerm 'reliability'.

PS- Dynotunenitrous.com gear is often found to be a poorer product to holley NOS.. I wouldn't use it on my scooter!

Some of the best info found about nitrous is found on:

http://www.noswizard.com/

http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/

Edited by XRATED
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