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I am looking for feedback from people about what clutch they run, what power they put through it, the price they paid and how they like it.

Im currently running Exedy 3 puck ceramic, with 290rwkw, i paid 700 when i bought it about 1 year ago and its a pain in the ass to drive on the street but had good bite

Im looking at a Exedy Sports Tuff Organic this time round...

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OS Giken twin plate, unsprung centre - approx 320rwkw.

excellent bite, easy to drive on the street, not too heavy. I can drive this quite easily in traffic too. Easy to launch, as you can load it up then feed it out as you leave the line.

it was necessary to have the car tuned where the initial bite is, so you dont have to pick up the revs and dump to get off the line cleanly - but a few minutes of tweaking and its perfect to take off nice and smooth.

not sure how long before this wears off.
It doesn't, I've had my Exedy Sports Organic clutch in for around 10,000+ km now and it still shudders.

Actually i'll be back at the shop tomorrow that fitted it getting new gearbox/diff oil along with checking out all the clutch hydralics just to see how everything is going. I've got a feeling that it won't last me till the end of '04 because I frequent the local drag strip (drop it from 3,500rpm around 10x per meeting).

Hi raist60, we use OS Giken, twin plate in GTST's and triple plate in GTR's. Once you get used to the rattle when the clucth is dissengaged, they are great. Never slip, not heavy to operate and easy to modulate.

Sydneykid - how much are they worth? what kind of power do they handle?

What would you recommend for my 33GTR with about 270kw @wheels?

I have a heavy duty excedy and it shudders sometimes when taking off slow

tip for those with these clutches: when taking off slow try to give it as little rpm as possible, i find this helps stop the shudder, when you give it a few too many revs, (not launching) it shudders.

Hi ferni, about $3K and a twin plate would be OK for your power levels in a GTR. I don't bother with a triple plate in GTR's until we get over 350 rwkw.

As for how much power? Not a straight forward answer. In a GTST we have over 400 rwkw on a twin plate, no problems. It simply doesn't have enough traction to cause clutch issues, spins the wheel instead, even on R type tyres. A GTR with more than 350rwkw would need a triple plate though if it had T type tyres. I have used a triple plate up to 600 rwkw, where the gearbox became more of an issue than the clucth. A quad plate becomes necessary according to some people over 600 rwkw. I don't have a 1,000 bhp engine (yet) so I have no experience at that power level.

There is of course more than 1 type of OS Giken multiplate clutch. We use the "race" style which has sprung centres, but no anti rattle pressure/intermediate plates. There is solid centre "race" style as well. And sprung centre with anti rattle, which would be good for a road car. They are only slightly different BHP ratings.

Hope that answers your question

There is of course more than 1 type of OS Giken multiplate clutch. We use the "race" style which has sprung centres, but no anti rattle pressure/intermediate plates. There is solid centre "race" style as well. And sprung centre with anti rattle, which would be good for a road car. They are only slightly different BHP ratings.

What would you suggest for a street car (my gtst) that gets its arse caned every other drag meet - slipped from 5-6krpm regularly - and generally smashed and abused at every possible opportunity?

Adrian

P.S. That car's your hero? What is it?

What would you suggest for a street car (my gtst) that gets its arse caned every other drag meet - slipped from 5-6krpm regularly - and generally smashed and abused at every possible opportunity?

Adrian

P.S.  That car's your hero?  What is it?

Hi Adrian, I would go the twin plate with sprung centres and anti rattle.

PS; Apexi V-max R33 GTR, 8.8 at 165 mph, has AFM's, Power FC and runs 9.3 to 1 compression ratio.

shouldnt it be runnin a bit faster at 165mph? like 8.5?

Your right, typo by me, it was 8.47 at 165.75 mph to be precise at 2 bar. On the same day it ran an 8.8 at 155 mph at 1.85 bar. But that's not why I like it, it's because one car, on its own, kills off so many myths. It says you can;

1. Run AFM's and be as powerfull as cars without AFM's.

2. Run a Power FC and be as effective as cars with all sorts of far more expensive ECU's

3. Run 9.3 to 1 compression ratio and make over 1,000 bhp

There are plenty of cars that are evidence of one or two of these, but in this one, single car the 3 biggest myths in Skylines are killed off. Bottom line, it proves this to all those sheep who follow the line, removing the AFM/s, dropping the compression ratio and sticking a map sensor driven ecu in it is the only way to go fast.

Now you know why I like it.

I use the Just Jap 5 puck ceramic with the sprung centre. Drives mostly like standard except reverse parking up a hill when it shudderd a bit and can rattle when disengaged in those cases.

Good take up, not too hard and will bite enough to chirp third pretty hard on standard boost. Being ceramic, on a hard launch, even as you ride it it will take up very suddenly after a little slip and away you go.

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