Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You are dicking yourself in terms of performance and reliability.

Save your money and highflow the stock turbo to run the 12 instead of running dual maps so you can run some magical sauce only to blow the rear wheel off the turbo which might take your motor with it.

plus guys before you get all excited US fuel octane number is measured differently to ours (they quote an average of RON and MON we just quote RON which reads much higher than MON ratings). their 91 octane (AKI) fuel is somewhere around our 95RON fuel (not quite as good as our 98 RON but nor far off).

as for the OP, there is no set formula. you need to tune it for the new fuel and see how much boost and timing it will take before it either stops making more power or it knocks.

also why only 12psi? with no more boost you will struggle to get much more power. if it's only for drag runs, wind it up a bit. even just another 3psi of so will give some decent gain.

I've read that 12 psi is the most you want to run on the stock, ceramic turbo wheel. just not looking to hurt the engine. I need that bottom end to hold up to the GT35 when funding is available.

So far my best is a 13.30 @107. 12 psi 11.8ish afr's. this is with a 2.0 60'. I have some mickey thompson et streets now. shooting for a high 12's, maybe mid 12's on race gas.

I've read that 12 psi is the most you want to run on the stock, ceramic turbo wheel. just not looking to hurt the engine. I need that bottom end to hold up to the GT35 when funding is available.

So far my best is a 13.30 @107. 12 psi 11.8ish afr's. this is with a 2.0 60'. I have some mickey thompson et streets now. shooting for a high 12's, maybe mid 12's on race gas.

If you are keeping the bottom end stock (i.e. not rebored and forged etc ) a GT3076 will give you all the power you can handle - 300 - 330kw. A GT35 is good for a lot more than the stock RB25 can cope with.

It's not the boost that kills the turbo, it's the excess shaft speed.

US fuel also contains more benzine and other products that make it more knock resistant for the same 'octane rating'.

Your going to need a fair bit more power to run consistant mid 12's from a 13... Id spend some time taking weight out of the thing first. Then a ethanol tune.

Or nitrous.

Cheers

Justin

I eventually plan on building up an engine for the car. the GT35 is just so I dont outgrow the turbo.

My car with me in it is under 3000 pounds, I should be able to shave a quarter second off the 60' foot time, I will be launching off of a two step at 5000. so a quarter second off the sixty has always been, and SHOULD be good for a half second off the big end. thats 12.80 without race gas.

I'm mainly just curious how much timing I can add for the race gas. Ive heard 6 degrees, 8 degrees??? also would I need to go to a hotter plug???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...