Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

thinking about selling my beloved 88 camry for something newer and more economical.

im looking at a hot hatch, i dont really care how feminine it looks, not looking to impress anyone, i need fuel economy, manual transmission and 2000 model +, pref 4 but 2 door is fine, looking at no more then 1.5l and no less then 1.3

so far ive been looking at the

Hyundai Getz 02 model- 1.5l (seems more fuel efficient then the 04)

Toyota Echo 03ish model- 1.3l

Toyota Echo sportivo- 1.5l

possibly copy my sister and get a swift?

just looking for something cheap, around 8 grand, very economical, but one catch i need it to be able to climb mount eusley probly once a fort night and get me to newcastle from wollongong.

wondering if the echo 1.3 would be strong enough to get me up there alright??

give me some suggestions of your favour eco cars :D nothing over 10 grand as im buying a house and going on a euro trip next year :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374144-thinking-of-an-upgrade/
Share on other sites

OK, I haven't checked any of the values of the cars I'm suggesting, but if you want something small, light and economical but still fun (i.e. ignore the Echo/Yaris and any of the Korean or Malaysian options):

  • Honda Jazz
  • Mazda 2
  • Ford Fiesta
  • VW Polo
  • Suzuki Swift

Lol, march superturbo??

More seriously though, if you just want economy, as in dollars saved. Keep a lookout for thing's like camry's and magna's etc on ebay and carsales that have had an LPG conversion with a vapour injection system. They get similar and sometimes better economy but the fuel you're using is less than half the price.

Just a thought. A newer, smaller car would be better through the twisty bits.

Hmm I didn't think of the Mazda 2 I'll check it out,

Id agree that the jazz is better, power windows and 4 door :) I think I'll be looking for one of them.

I can't get a swift because my sister has one :P would be a little weird.

Hmm I've heard there's lots of problem with the holdens with LPG conversions.

Would this apply to a canry would you think??

Not sure about holdens, I've mainly looked into the magna ones. The vapour injection system is nothing like the oler mix systems. And the liquid injection systems have significant power gains.

To find an injection system you'd be looking for someone selling a car who has spent 4k on the conversion (before the rebate),, but I have seen a few camrys and magnas on ebay.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...