Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mate has a Gates on his 500rwhp RB25. It's fine, not noisy at all. Hasn't been on there long enough to comment on snapping, but I imagine any snappin incidents would be more related to poor installation than poor product.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375808-gates-vs-oem/#findComment-5993679
Share on other sites

But is it worth spending the extra $ to get a gates

i got gates in my GTR, is slightly noisy but not a huge deal really

as per other noises, you soon get used to it

but when the car idling, you can hear the belt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375808-gates-vs-oem/#findComment-5993695
Share on other sites

I got a Dayco timing belt kit with the idlers as well, just another option

but agree with above, Gates should be fine, they can be a bit noisey if tightened a bit much. But if you dont want to spend that much then the Dayco is cheaper

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375808-gates-vs-oem/#findComment-5993941
Share on other sites

No snappage on my gates racing belt at 75 thou. Didn't notice extra noise either *shrugs*.

Have an oem belt about to go into a replacement motor though even though it was only $22 extra for the gates racing belt in a major service kit.

Don't gates market the racing (blue) belts as 300% stronger than oem and fray and heat resistant etc? Really do wish nissan motors were non interference for a bit of extra safety when it comes to timing belt disasters.. only takes a damaged belt or seized water pump/idler bearing etc to screw our motors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375808-gates-vs-oem/#findComment-5994131
Share on other sites

Gates and OEM rubber is different (even with cam and crank seals), Gates use a hard rubber (explains noise) while OEM is much softer. In the end what matters the most is the installation of the belt itself, do it right first time and you won't need to worry about it for another 10 years or 100,000km.

When it came to do my 100,000km service, I went with what my mechanic recommended (ex Nissan Foreman), genuine Nissan belts and seals. He has genuine Nissan gear in his 32 GTR and tracks it with a built motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375808-gates-vs-oem/#findComment-5994350
Share on other sites

More important than the belt is buying a bolt for the idler and a new stud for the tensioner. Then use service manual data and a torque wrench when installing and tightning them up. Over tightening combined with heat cycling can cause the bolts to break, and then you learn the hard way what an interference engine is all about.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375808-gates-vs-oem/#findComment-5994439
Share on other sites

Look for the dayco kit if you can, nice and cheap and comes with belt idler tensioners ect, everything that it needed. Had mine in for 30000 now and all good I think I got mine off eBay. At the end of the day it's a timing belt with no performance gains, it makes no sense to spend extra.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375808-gates-vs-oem/#findComment-5994496
Share on other sites

Just FYI, I wouldn't bother buying any of the idler/tensioners in a kit from anywhere..

I got my idler and tensioner, brand new NSK items, from Statewide Bearings for a LOT cheaper than anyone else could even think of doing them for.

Oh and I run a Dayco belt for my 30 :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375808-gates-vs-oem/#findComment-5994720
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...