Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just a quicky.

Im after an exhaust manifold needs to be low mount, needs to suit my GTX3076 internal gate.

I was looking at the HPI ones for the GTST. then obviously theres 6 boost, but duno if they are low mount.

Theres also alot of faf about merged collector? etc etc. are the HPI ones a merged collector like the 6boost ones?

Can anyone suggest any alternatives?

Bit of money to spend so i appreciate any serious advice or experiances.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376361-exhaust-manifold/
Share on other sites

get the 6 boost...lifetime guarentee of awesomeness...

Though you do have to modify a few things.. i do beleive the HPI sidemount will bolt straight up with everything in the same position, Tao just fitted one similar to his car check his thypergear thread..might be a good option for you..

get the 6 boost...lifetime guarentee of awesomeness...

Though you do have to modify a few things.. i do beleive the HPI sidemount will bolt straight up with everything in the same position, Tao just fitted one similar to his car check his thypergear thread..might be a good option for you..

yeah thats why the HPI seems a good option. Do they flow well or do i go for above " HKS cast low mount " if i can find one?

yes they,re near impossible to find..plus you will need a new intake pipe and new dump fabricated, same with 6boob..HPI is your easiest choice but......yeah how good they are I dont know..

You can get your stock manifold honed out as well is another option but none of these are really going to fix your problems much, I honestly think maybe your better off going highmount or swapping that turbo which will cost you about the same as a manifold anyway....i dunno :/

Any manifold you pay less than $1000-$1400 for, you are going to run the risk of it cracking.

The quality simply is not there yet from the China stuff when you subject it to extreme heat, weight etc. They just crack.

Even the RB26 Tomei manifolds crack and you pay $1000 for those! You really need to spend to get quality in the manifold area. 6boost are a SAU Trader, i'd be dropping them a PM if i were you :)

yeah dunno ,they could be alright..I just thought it was a funny thread :laugh:

..thing is any manifold will crack, under duress even the stock on doesnt last long...if you dont mind taking it off every now and then to fix it, which is fine if you do it yourself in the shed on your time off..if your paying someone to fix it you arein for alot of heatache..buy the best buy with confidence...6boost ;)

Stock ones generally are perfectly fine. Rare to see one crack as plenty have been running 250-300rwkw for years without issues.

If they do crack its because someone hacked up to weld a gate on, or had the full exhaust weight hanging.

Hmm IN fact i have discovered that the rb25det stock manifold is not aligned properly

thats there over hand on some of the port

If you ahve a anifold lating around go check it ( stick a good gasket over the top of the ports and see that it don't mach up

i have sen that all the ones i have seen have about a 2 mm to 1mm lip where it is not aligned

problem is you cant just grind it out because the bolt holes are to big and you will loose to much service area

Idea's??

IM chasing response and response only currently have 300 rwkw

with alot of torque and boost curve is about 3.600 rpm Already dont intake manifold But im afraid that making my exhaust runners larger will give me more lag ( granted it will give me more power ) but more lag anyone got info on this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...