Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am dismantling my R33 GTR and selling everything. As i have a wedding and a house to pay for. Some of the parts are brand new still have been installed but never used, and majority of the other parts have done about 5000-10000kms on them. All these parts are genuine, no fake bullshit here and i don't not have time for time wasters or dreamers otherwise you will be getting told to F#*k off real quick. Here's a quick list for the moment as i would take me days to write out i you wanna see pics just click on the link on my Sig to see everything.

2002 R34 N1 Nur Crate Engine has done 25,000kms since new (done 10,000kms standard setup and 15,000kms with aftermarket parts fitted) and has the following goodies:

- Ross Tuffbond Metal Jacket Harmonic Balancer

-Hi Octane Extended Sump

-Tomei Timing Belt

-Tomei Adjustable Cam Gears

-Tomei 260 Degree x 9.15mm Lift Cams

-Mines Cam Cover Baffles

-Spool Head Oil Drain Kit

P.S this is just the engine for sale no intake or exhaust comes with it.

Asking $10,000

- Series 3 R33 GTR Xenon Lights (Used slightly look new still)

Asking $1900

-Genuine Abflug Carbon Rear Diffuser

Asking $800

-R33 GTR Spoiler with Nismo Carbon End Caps and Genuine Autoselect Carbon Devil Chibi Wing Blade

Asking $800

-Apexi Power FC DJetro with Hand Controller and FC Datalogit Tuning Gear

Asking $1200

-4 Hankook Ventus RS-3 Tire 285/35R18 (Brand New)

Asking $1500

-ARC Airbox and Full HKS Piping Kit Intake (Good Condition)

Asking $1500

-Gram Lights 57F Pro Titanium Lip Rims 18x10 +20 with Tires (In Very Good Condition)

Asking $3000.

-Sunline Racing GT Spec Titanium Front Pipe (Brand New Never Used)

Asking-$1400

front_pype_titan.jpg

-Fujimura Auto Rocker Dancer Titanium Strut Brace (Brand New Never Used)

Asking $900

nengun-0000-02-fujimuraauto-rocket_dancer_-_all_titanium_tower_bar.png

-Cusco Tension Rod Bar (Brand New Never Been Used)

Asking $90

nengun-0531-00-cusco-tension_rod_bar.jpg

That's is all for now but visit my tread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/280567-nur33-soon-to-be-a-time-attack-weapon/ and if there is anything you want just message me.

Cheers

Benny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376460-dismantling-my-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...