Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just seeing how much people have knowingly gotten away with getting their cars inspected?

I ask as i need to get my Stagea inspected to get WA rego, I bought it from NSW.

It came with nice looking V35 rims in the photos.

The photos didn't show the wheel spacers, if I take the spacers off the back tyres rub slightly on the coilover lock nut.

I dont really wanna rush to buy a set of rims I dont really need while the tyres are still good on it.

I could probably drive it for one day as it seems to have 2-3mm clearance whilst stationary, must only rub on bumps or corners.

If others have got away with them on.....

Cheers.

Shane.

  • 2 weeks later...

Lets see how long this thread stays open...

OP.

You're admitting on an online public car forum that you purchased a car that is un-roadworthy and/ or defectable by law and want other members to openly say how many Illegal things they have on their car and how they got away with it?????

Lets see how long this thread stays open...

OP.

You're admitting on an online public car forum that you purchased a car that is un-roadworthy and/ or defectable by law and want other members to openly say how many Illegal things they have on their car and how they got away with it?????

Build a bridge. He hasn't murdered anyone.

I've only been over the pits twice, once on my XR250 which had a blown rear brake light and once in my 1600 which copped a few minor things which I had to fix, but nothing major. They ignored the non-engineered seats, 2L motor where a 1800 should have been and a whole bunch of other things.

My current car is dripping with unroadworthy things such as a Power FC, exhaust hanging a touch too low, boost controller but hasn't yet been picked on. It got through a roady no worries as well.

  • 3 weeks later...

"going over the pits" isnt a game. i dont want my loved one's lives at risk from un-roadworthy cars being driven on public roads.

And a car that is 5mm to low or vents gases to atmosphere is going to kill ur loved ones right??? get real....

its not as if hes saying, " hey my fuel tank leaks and my brakes dont work, will i pass?"....

News Headlines "SLIP ON SPACERS KILLS FAMILY!"... hahaha

Edited by BrynDETT

So nothing on your car Is "defectable" Adam?

If not then go Ahead and say that bold Statement.. If not STFU.

I agree fully on this statement above :) How many highly modified imports would pass if they went over the pits ? Not very many i reckon !! Whats the point of owning a import or any other high performance car without modifying , the world would be a very boring place !!!

I have found that I you make a genuine effort to do what you can and the cars not dangerous and your not using dodgey fixes and not takin the loss they will be reasonable.

I.e. Tint too dark will usualy only be picked on if it's realy dark but not If it's a little under the limits. Suspension done badly to get more lock or camber compared to aftermarket stuff or an exhaust made quiet by shoving something in it.

  • 7 months later...

I purchased my car from NSW and registered in QLD my mechanic only pulled it up on mechanical issues. It failed with severe excessive movement in the steering rack shaft. Got that fixed then whent to QLD transport and they didnt even look at my car they just took my cash and gave me the rego papers. :yes:

Almost owned my car for 4 years now (starting from my P-plate days) & never got sent to the pits.

Defectable stuff include the usuals suspects: high flow Cat, FMIC (steath return flow black one, although still had to trim the reo bar a bit), boost controller, SAFC 2, 2 gauges stuck onto the dash with double sided tape :whistling:, the brake light on the spoiler doesn't work (never did, but the other 4 works).

Got pulled over a couple of times for random license checks/RBTs, but the Police here never seem to care.

"going over the pits" isnt a game. i dont want my loved one's lives at risk from un-roadworthy cars being driven on public roads.

Theres a lot more un-roadworthy everyday boxes with bland tires, worn out brake pads, leaking oil etc etc compared to some dude with a Skyline that is too low, has aftermarket ECU or atmo BOV (even if it sounds wanker, it doesn't endanger anyone).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...