Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I WD-40 THE HINGE ON THE TURBO & IN ''N' WHEN I ACCELERATE THE BOOST+10. BUT BEFORE IT GOES TO 0. WHATS WRONG WITH THE BOOST WHICH WAY IS TI SUPPOSE TO WORK.

NEED SOME HELP :worship:

What is this, a random phrase generator?

Not every set of put together randomly picked car related words makes sense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376997-turbo-boost/#findComment-6012476
Share on other sites

His socks are probably still wet as he got off the boat into a skyline. With that said, I am guessing he squirted WD40 on wastegate flap and saying something about in neutral it goes to +10 which is probably wrong considering the nissan gauge is +7-7. You will most likely never create positive boost on the stock turbo in neutral. Your gauge is probably shit. + is positive boost - is vacuum, or negative boost if you wish.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376997-turbo-boost/#findComment-6012518
Share on other sites

His socks are probably still wet as he got off the boat into a skyline. With that said, I am guessing he squirted WD40 on wastegate flap and saying something about in neutral it goes to +10 which is probably wrong considering the nissan gauge is +7-7. You will most likely never create positive boost on the stock turbo in neutral. Your gauge is probably shit. + is positive boost - is vacuum, or negative boost if you wish.

i dont know all the parts of the car especialy turbos .ive got a boost controler. thats how it went +10 in ''n' first time it didnt do it again.the question is why would the car do that.

PRIVILEGED PEOPLE WITH R33 .$12.500 my life acomplishment

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376997-turbo-boost/#findComment-6012600
Share on other sites

Ok I get it now. The Sarge is correct. Now that I've read it a few more times It does make sense.

You won't create any noticeable positive pressure while in 'N' because of the lack of load on the engine. Make sure your gauge is accurate by checking against another one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376997-turbo-boost/#findComment-6012663
Share on other sites

if your some kind of mechanic ,doesn't mean u can drive .it means u work 4 $18h :thumbsup:

Maybe where you come from pal. In Australia being a mechanic means not only can you drive but you get paid $30 an hour upwards.

http://www.seek.com.au/Job/heavy-vehicle-diesel-mechanic-wa/in/perth-perth/20651329

Edited by Room42
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376997-turbo-boost/#findComment-6012666
Share on other sites

exactly and they wonder why theres a skills shortage..

I found a job the other day fixing pallets, was shift work but paid over 1000$ a week..I know blokes earning twice that pushing a broom at the desal plant..

Its crazy but truth is by giving people with no qualifications money often means they will spend it with qualified people which lets qualified people can charge what they likeand the people paying dont care cause they make heaps of money for nothing.....its the circle of life

at the end of the day though the broom pusher is more expendable than a qualified mehanic.If there was a war the broom pusher will be on the frontline getting shot at while the mechanic will still be fixig cars ,or tanks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376997-turbo-boost/#findComment-6012728
Share on other sites

Who in their right mind would work for $19 an hour if they were a qualified mechanic? You get paid more packing shelves at the local supermarket.

Exactly....but would I be happy packing shelves at a local supermarket? Hell no.

Obviously you have the potential to earn more with a busy employer or a large company in need but Mechs are the lowest paid trade in the world

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376997-turbo-boost/#findComment-6012873
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...