Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ill be in sydney next weekend fitting mick o's gtx3071. If u want i could take a look at it then.

Sounds good man, you will know here and I'll probably sms you if I've fixed it otherwise shoot me an sms when your down I can bring my car up.

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I was thinking of something. If I built a small circuit consisting of a few LED's ranging from red to yellow to green which will receive the AFM voltage signal as the input and work in such a way that when the volts are low the lights are red and when the volts and air rises the lights will go to yellow and green, could I use this as a clear display for me to monitor when I am getting effects of reversion to determine if its an issue? I don't think it will take long to make and I should have all the parts I need. I can just keep my eye on my power fc hand controller afm voltage and see what happens.

Or just monitor the signal with a multimeter lol. Better yet an oscilloscope but I doubt you have one of them lying around.

Surely the powerFC software can graph AFM volts vs time though? That would be the easiest way to see.

Or just monitor the signal with a multimeter lol. Better yet an oscilloscope but I doubt you have one of them lying around.

Surely the powerFC software can graph AFM volts vs time though? That would be the easiest way to see.

I has an oscilloscope which I found years ago lol it's been binned though. I might invest in some power fc software. I am fairly certain it can log afm signal against time and rpm. I've got a multimeter but the fluctuation might be too quick I won't see it. With the power fc I can reset the max readings the second I back off the throttle and then check them again. Damn it would be sweet if I could get some power fc data logger on my phone lol. OdbII has it and you can use bluetooth too dammit lol.

Coil packs failed on me. Stock ones are back in there. Damn yellow jackets, lets hope they can get replaced under warranty. Second set to fail on me :( I haven't tested if this fixed my stalling or lean popping issue but it seems everything came at once so lets try iron them out.

Spray the stock coils with CRC urethane seal coat Sarge.

Ill do this, sounds like a mint idea too. I'm using Nitto tape, good shit but under that heat it does dry up pretty quickly.

Damn and i was thinking of yellow jackets after readin some reviews of them., now im stayin clear, ur not the only guy to report their failure..

Don't get me wrong, they work. They work awesome, it just seems that maybe the heat in a modded engine kills them early. Maybe 19psi is too much for them. Could be many reasons but I can tell you the warranty and service behind them(from performance wise) is second to none. Spoke with him today and he offered me a full refund or replacement set. Unfortunately I think I am going to take the refund then invest in a set of spitfires. Looks like the stock piece is holding pretty well so far too. 15psi on the drive home no miss.

So the issue seems to have been coilpacks?

Would be good to get it out there.. I was thinking of getting a set for my SR

well no, the coil packs were my latest problem but I'm still having issues with strapping and idle and cruise conditions... I spoke with performance wise and the highest failure rate is only with series 2 coils. Apparently the coils might have an issue with the dwell time of the series 2...

you guys figure this out yet? its not hard. its pretty obvious what is going on here.

Not yet, its only when the car is warm it lean pops. Please man if you got any ideas let me know.

Not yet, its only when the car is warm it lean pops. Please man if you got any ideas let me know.

I have many ideas.... but lets start with this...

Warm the car up, make it so its popping on idle... then... go to the petrol station, don't stop the engine and fill the tank with 98 to the brim.

Post back results.

I have many ideas.... but lets start with this...

Warm the car up, make it so its popping on idle... then... go to the petrol station, don't stop the engine and fill the tank with 98 to the brim.

Post back results.

Isn't that dangerous lol. What should or shouldn't happen?

Do you have your PCV connected to the Plenum? Make sure that valve is still working

If it is still connected do your cam cover breathers still connect to the intake pipe after your AFM?

Do you have your PCV connected to the Plenum? Make sure that valve is still working

If it is still connected do your cam cover breathers still connect to the intake pipe after your AFM?

It is still connected and was replaced with a new piece as the old one broke during replacement of the injectors. I had no issues with the car until I measured up a new intake pipe. I did NOT fit a new intake pipe it. Merley measured up a new pipe then put everything back together and its been lean popping and stalling since. Also noticed my fuel cap isn't going pssh anymore and noticed fuel fumes coming from the fuel cap again ffs.

Ive got my intake breather hooked up to the exhaust breather(like standard) then fron the exhaust side to a sealed catch can then back to the turbo. Below is a diagram of how shit is facing and what not.

post-68383-0-21748400-1317023329_thumb.png

Edited by SargeRX8

just go to the station, fill the car up while its popping. after you put a fuel talk, does the popping go away?

also take picture of your intake pipes and post them up please.

Isn't that dangerous lol. What should or shouldn't happen?

As long as you don't spill petrol all over your exhaust I can't see the issue, no more dangerous than normal I'd say, it is just a precaution in the odd event you have arcing in your engine bay and there happens to be close to the lower explosive limit concentration of vapours in the air, basically a 1 in a million chance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...