Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a question regarding E10 fuel.

Now i know that its a blend of unleaded + %10 ethonal and is a lower Octane rating , but i have been searching on the net and discovered the following at "Freedom Fuels" which actually has 3 diferent types of E10...

E10 Unleaded (91)

http://www.freedomfuels.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=15&Itemid=20

E10 Premium (95)

http://www.freedomfuels.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=16&Itemid=20

E10 Hi Octane (98)

http://www.freedomfuels.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=17&Itemid=20

So my question is that would it be ok to use the E10 Hi Octane as its equivelent to 98 proof premium unleaded?

Regards,

Darren..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378246-e10/
Share on other sites

Any E10 is safe to use and the higher octane the better.

For highly tuned engines the problem is the same as with E85 although on a smaller scale - namely that the actual ethanol content and rating of the fuel can vary which matters when your engine is tuned to the outer limits. For such engines the way forward seems to be the "flexi" approach where the fuel quality is sampled by a special sensor before it reaches the injectors and an adjustment made automatically through your Link, Vipec or other high performing aftermarket ecu.

However for stock or less modified engines the difference particularly with E10 should not be significant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378246-e10/#findComment-6031856
Share on other sites

I'm using the United Premium 100 fuel, which has become available again at my local servo. 100 octane E10, and my car seems to run better on it. Always had good results when running it in the past.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378246-e10/#findComment-6032149
Share on other sites

Does it cost extra? If the car is tuned on 98 octane fuel, will it be fine switching to this? Are there any risks of running this octane stuff? I have heard alot of stories of the ethanol ruining old components in the fuel setup, corroding shit, etc. Sure these cars run now but is there any negative long term effects

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378246-e10/#findComment-6032637
Share on other sites

so United sell e10 100 octane...might have to check that out and put 1/2 tank in when empty to see if there is a diference between that & vortex..

Thanks for the input guys, would love to do e85 but there isnt much around and cant afford more injectors presently but but the e10 may helpp a bit....

How does it vary in price to the 2 premuim brands & what the economy like guys?

Regards,

Dazza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378246-e10/#findComment-6033083
Share on other sites

I find the 100 to be similarly priced to Ultimate.

I think the E10 does corrode in older cars. R31s are on the list of cars that cant run E10 (without upgrading the fuel lines), but modern cars are fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378246-e10/#findComment-6033093
Share on other sites

I find the 100 to be similarly priced to Ultimate.

I think the E10 does corrode in older cars. R31s are on the list of cars that cant run E10 (without upgrading the fuel lines), but modern cars are fine.

uh oh, i think thats all that my gf's 31 ever gets :(

on topic, i run the e10 95 in my stagea (way cheaper than the 98 we get here) and it runs pertty well (rb25 neo)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378246-e10/#findComment-6033808
Share on other sites

Funny, I remember it being in one of those government pamphlets when E10 first came out as being on the 'do not use' list. Maybe it was just paranoia on their behalf? I never bothered to double check it, just didn't use it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378246-e10/#findComment-6034838
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...