Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Spent a day at my mates house trying to figure out why my car missfired at low rpm and went lean all the time. Swapped out a heap of parts including the CAS, ended up putting all my parts back on apart from the CAS.

Drive home no problems.(Apart from the miss and random lean out)

Next day i figure out my cam cover venting to atmosphere with the pcv still connected to the plenum is basically a big air leak.

Start the car and missfire is gone no more leaning at idle I go for a quick drive and all smooth apart from burbling on decel, i assume this is caused by incorrect injector lag times(Lag time may have been incorrectly set to high as the air leak meant more fuel was needed on vacume). Come to a round about near my house and the car dies. Will not start just keeps crancking over.

Tow the car home. This weekend i put my CAS back on and jump start the car and it runs(Took abit of cranking)

Battery was pretty much flat from all the cranking so last night i put the battery on charge. This morning I try and start the car and nothing just endless cranking(I thought the CAS i put on it was faulty)

Any ideas? I have already reset the tune to standard and resized the injectors and MAF to get a new starting point. This did not help at all.

CAS timing has not been set properly since putting mine back on and is currently sitting all the way anti clock wise.

I have played with cold cranking fuel and ignition and this has not helped.

I do plan on setting the timing correctly but i need the F*cking car to start first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378380-never-ending-r33-gtst-problem/
Share on other sites

It won't start with the cas in the wrong spot

Put it in the center and I bet it starts. It won't hurt it on idle if it's too advanced or retarded in the middle.

You car definitely won't start if it's super retarded

There was already a mark on it so originally we lined it up to that and it started(This was the other night)

As it was hard to start that time i have been moving the CAS slightly starting from all the way anticlockwise.

The issue this morning happened before the case was moved as i though it might have been an issue.

Just noticed the lack of fuel pump priming so i might disconnect the fuel feed and see if fuel is flowing

I recently had the fuel pump hard wired with a relay by an auto electrician

Check your fuel pressure, see if its up to scratch. Also you can pull out the plugs after the cranking and see if they're wet from fuel. Remember, if the fuel hits the plug for too long and is not ignited, chances are you've fouled most, if not all the plugs and the car will NEVER start.

I spent a fair while trying to diagnose my car once a while back, crank crank crank nothing. Changed plugs, problem was gone.

I have an R33 gtst..its a never ending problem :D

But seriously mine hs done this a few times and its always been fouled plugs. Always keep a spare set in your toolbox :thumbsup:

.also just recently the battery..I would charge it all night and it still didnt want to fire..however if I plugged in the battery charger on its engine start function it would start..battery was just rooted..it would crank but wouldnt fire the coils..then plugs would foul form too much cranking...New battery with 430cca she now cranks like a baws....problem solved..

That's also another problem with you guys. If it doesn't start after 3 or 4 cranks, you'll keep cranking. It's not goin to magically fix itself and start.

It's a EFI motor, it's designed to start easy.

Plus, these cheap shit batteries you or the jap \ compliance puts in them are just that - shit.

Get a decent battery and try to crank it 3 or 4 times a couple of times. Not all night.

If it doesn't start after a couple of short goes, stop, and start checking shit.

yes u are right..

My only defense is that yeah, I only crank it a few hits at a time and sometimes it would magically fix itself

i had a feeling it was the battery and when i got it going I went straight to local battery shop to have it checked..first thing he said is thats a piece of junk battery and its dead...was a 320cca power crank..was in it when I bought it..

I doubt in this case its my battery. It cranking over and over and over. The battery went flat after the car originally cut out and had o get towed home.

It died during decel and sounded like it was getting too much fuel as it was popping alot.

nope it would crank ok, although not as good as it does with the new battery..

lights would be alright everything ..it just wouldnt fire...guy at the battery shop said it just didnt have enough Cold Cranking Amps.

eventually when it had warmed up a little it would fire and once it did it would run, but i know at least once the plugs fouled up..

It starts first crank now though it sometimes stalls out straight away, so its still not starting 100% and my starter squeals like a pig when it does

I feel there is another issue, I'm not sure what yet might just be the plugs still..

I doubt in this case its my battery. It cranking over and over and over. The battery went flat after the car originally cut out and had o get towed home.

It died during decel and sounded like it was getting too much fuel as it was popping alot.

yeah sorry for the slight thread highjack..yours sounds like a diferent problem..

that doesnt make sense "guy at the battery shop said it didnt have enough cold cranking amps"

if there arent enough amps its dead obvious, the lights go dim, you can hear the starter motor struggle and it basically tries to start as if something is strangling it's neck

Tow the car home. This weekend i put my CAS back on and jump start the car and it runs(Took abit of cranking)

Battery was pretty much flat from all the cranking so last night i put the battery on charge. This morning I try and start the car and nothing just endless cranking(I thought the CAS i put on it was faulty)

that sounds more like the immoboliser is stuck on or something obvious like that

there is either enough amperage in the battery, or there isn't

its dead obvious when there isnt, lights go dim when you try to crank, starter motor struggles to turn over (you can hear it struggling)

the basics when starting

air, fuel, spark

inputs, water temp sensor, airflow meter

outputs, crank angle sensor, injectors, coilpacks

it should start without water temp sensor and airflow meter

it wont start without CAS, injectors, coilpacks, air, fuel or spark, or power

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...