Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Few boxes arrived today!

One rad to replace a leaky one for the Whale, and another for me. A Nismo thermostat, and the motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer.

I'll chuck the rad and thermostat in when I get the next chance, but I'm not going to fit the plenum spacer until I go for my next tune, in case it leans it out too much. Better safe than sorry. Next to the AFM!

6962844790_9a91abd6a7.jpg

IMG_4318[1] by PNM35, on Flickr

Edited by PN-Mad

Put the number plate in the bottom of the bar Craig - looks horrendous there!

lolz........the plate won't stay there....I had to put it somewhere for the trial fit and thats where the holes were from the previous owner!

.......sorry Alex!......I'll stop again now!

So, installed my radiator yesterday. It wasn't "drop in" but it was pretty close. I did modify a couple of little things for future ease. The Nismo thermostat was a bit of a pain. Hard to get that gasket in place, and find the bolt holes. Anyway, its in, and not leaking.

Strapped up the laptop for the trip to work yesterday. Thermostat opens at about 75 degrees, from there temp dropped to 73. once I started warming it up a bit, normal cruising temps were from about 77-82 degrees. If I was at lights, that went up to 88 or so, but soon dropped back down. I got stuck in traffic, and temp went up to the normal 98 where the fans cut in, and I saw a noticeable increase in speed for the temp to drop back down to 93 and fans switch off. So, its a win. No leaks, this morning I topped up the system, and made sure the last of the air was out. I'll check again in a few days time that its fully bled.

Overall its a drop of about 10 to 12 degrees. Normal Cruising temps were just over 90 generally, and at lights you could expect it to go up to 95 to 98. I did have to pick up some barbs from pirtek for the AT cooler lines, and replace one hose that was too short to reach the new inlet. Barbs were cheap, and I sealed them with tape and locktite.

Pics!

6976816336_8ee9b9388a.jpg

Why is the Mishimoto better? Look at the core size! It also has much wider fins if you know what I mean, which should let more air into the engine bay to cool things.

6976815458_c63e40ace0.jpg

6976814582_df1cc53875.jpg

Nice work....your temps look to be about the same as mine on cruise.....however at the lights I'm lucky if I see 88. If I start getting up it I get to about 82-84.

It's a good rad aye!!!

Yeah, but you got your fans set to 86 or something don't you?

My stockies kick in @ 98!

It is nice. I had to take preventative measures to make sure that the condensor wasn't touching/rubbing, and one locating pin was about 3cm out of line. Dr Dremmel saw to that!

unfortunatly no moar powers in a radiator :(

No more powers but a track day won't see you overheating. Even my old mitsi Chinese copy rad held a perfect 80-82 at Wakefield!

We are do a Wakefield day btw....nationals iin November for CSS! I'll be there wings and all!

Nice work Alex, the car just keeps getting better!

No more powers but a track day won't see you overheating. Even my old mitsi Chinese copy rad held a perfect 80-82 at Wakefield!

We are do a Wakefield day btw....nationals iin November for CSS! I'll be there wings and all!

It's gonna look sweeeeeet!

manta%20baby.JPG

Edited by Daleo

Just a quick note to say that Uprev have now cracked the Cooling fan codes, and I am now able to determine the temp that the thermos come on. They must have heard I changed my radiator.

I love these guys....

:wub:

Question is - what temp do I set it at? I was thinking high 80s maybe early 90s. Stock is 100 degrees.

Edited by PN-Mad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...