Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When injectors get clogged/dirty they lose their factory spray (mist) and turn into a leaky tap, could explain why it's running rich.. no way to know for absolute sure unless the injectors are taken out and cleaned&flow tested.

There has to be a reason why there is excess fuel being dumped in, someone has suggested looking for a Atmo BOV which would cause the car to stall while slowing down and running rich (metered air being dumped to the atmosphere before it reached the engine instead of being re-circulated as the stock ecu expects).. although you would know you have one by the wanky noise.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Stock Bov mate. had a talk with the old owner who had her for 7 yrs. He reckons that it would be the AFM because it went faulty on him once and caused shit fuel economy but said it was doing its thing fine. But i suppose the injectors would be due for a clean, or would it be worth getting newys. Thanks mate for the suggestion wouldnt have bothered getting injectors done if it wasnt for your input. Ill get quotes tommorow :)

Yes cal my driving style will contribute. BUT my mechanic has had all his scan tools on there and the car runs very rich that is the problem. i had to fill up to the brim twice coming back from Melbourne so a 500k trip this was full to empty each time.

No I mean AFR.

AFM Voltage is irrelevant for me because it doesn't determine how much fuel the engine is getting at a certain point. It merely tells how much air is coming in to the engine so the ecu can work it out

If your hitting 5v at WOT then sounds like your maxing out the AFM anyway

to op, my story:

for the last 1 to 1.5 years i've been getting around 280 to 320km a full tank (60 liters) so thats's 18.75 liters/100km, i've just changed my fuel filter and now i'm getting 390-440km a tank (so i've wasted so much fuel this last year because of a dirty $20 fuel filter). Just from changing my fuel filter my economy is from 18.75 liters/100km to now 13.63 liters/100km. so if you haven't try changing your fuel filter and see how that goes. good luck.

fuel pressure was fine he tested it. he would clamp the hose and the pressure would go really high indicating a good pump.
Then he had a gauge connected. What did it read? Just because it has "good" fuel pressure doesn't mean it has "correct" fuel pressure.
he said not to bother as they were working when it comes to injectors. they were working fine apparently and the problem is running rich
If the injectors are dirty, they can hold the needle slightly open, allowing too much fuel to enter the engine. Result = RICH. So, are the injectors clean and flowing correctly?

I said it my first post, put it on a dyno and check AFR's, AFM voltages wont tell you the full story. For the reasons that have been listed in the post above plus many more, everything could be alright on paper, but your car is running Rich and causing bad fuel economy. Take it to a tuner and ask him to put it on the dyno and check the AFR's

Sensor voltages are really just inputs to the ECU, 4V at the AFM doesnt mean its going to put X amount of fuel into the engine.

I've recently just replaced one of my O2 sensors, and my fuel economy has increased by a huge amount. :rofl: So will be checking them on a regular basis.

I read online that having a faulty O2 sensor, you can use up to 30% more fuel. :rant:

Yep, I recently replaced my O2 sensor with a cheapish one from Vulture Motorsport.

http://www.skylinesa..._gopid__6063325

Also reset the ECU. Economy went from 300 km / 45L = 15L / 100km to 400km / 47L = 11.75L / 100km.

Definately worth trying this. Cheerin'. :D

After a few weeks I cleaned the AFM, which didn't seem to change economy but it did stop an issue at 10psi boostin' time.:w00t:

Edited by Not a Pulsar

I've recently just replaced one of my O2 sensors, and my fuel economy has increased by a huge amount. :rofl: So will be checking them on a regular basis.

I read online that having a faulty O2 sensor, you can use up to 30% more fuel. :rant:

yeah at light load the o2 sensors make the car run at around 14.5:1 AFR, if you unplug the o2 sensor, at the same throttle load it will run richer at aroung 12:1 AFR

I have recently lost my job so fuel economy isnt a problem because im on the bike at the moment. but from the sounds of it my goal is new o2 sensor and then get it on the dyno. i have done the fuel filter recently and no avail. Oh and most importantly injectors checked out

Coilpacks wouldn't make to much difference on fuel economy (unless they were colpletely wrecked)

Most of your fuel economy comes from your lean cruise cells which don't require a strong spark. The coilpack issues mainly occur under boost/load when the spark needs to be strong

Having said that splitfires are good for later on when you decide to start modding more

lots of talk of the AFM being faulty or having the right voltage but have you cleaned the AFM??? i dont think ive seen this mentioned yet...if so, sry i missed that. if your running an oil charged pod filter, they like to make AFM's dirty.

check for an air leak?? maybe in or near the TPS ( random idles are often this)

good luck...i couldnt imagine this sort of economy. the all wheel drive i guess would make it a bit more than a 2WD, but not that much...ouch. i get 400-500 out of my 33 GTST tank. 400 is with happy driving and happy laps. 500 is on the highway with my economy sponge installed :whistling: (i have seen 600km out of a tank)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...